Yup, I g
Been wanting, but putting off new ones since then. But the last couple months as its gotten brighter and brighter coming out of winter, I’ve really needed some.
Turns out it really is a fast easy change too!
To me that was a steal for $32 (local price; Online you can find them as low as $19.99, but before shipping. ) especially since it is 1/5 what replacing the last ones could cost IF I could find a pair (discontinued model).
It’s even cheaper than the last safety/sun glasses I had, a smoke black pair from 3M, they were $45. They lasted me about 4, naybe 5 years, and are still useable, but some of the marks on thd lenses are getting pretty annoying.
They’ve been backups in my truck for a while, but now in my bike bag, a last ditch pair.
Those by 3M are what I was going after to get again, when I found the Radians.
Here are the frames sans lenses, and then changed to the smoke from the copper shown above. Only takes maybe 45 seconds, a minute max to swap them.
Adjustable temple/earpiece lengths and soft bridgr pads, plus super light weight= really comfortable.
So far I’m using the smoke for general wear, and changing to the copper, which is a deep orange/amber with a pink tint, for riding the bike. After a few minute my eyes adjust and take out the pink tint, then the amber does like other brown/amber glasses I’ve had; Hightens contrast and boosts depth perception.
Only time will tell how the other colors will work but so far I’m really enjoying them.
I have no idea when CKX stopped making this helmet. This one is marked as being made in 1998. I bought it around 2000 or 2001.
It is a snowmobile helmet, lightly insulated, and with a double pane face shield, to mitigate fogging/frosting.
It never worked worth a damn. It was always a frosted mess I couldn’t see out of. Add to that my hatred at the time of the great lack of visibility out of a full face helmet, it was soon shelved.
Somewhere along the way, I took the face shield off of it. I’m not exactly sure why now.
It’s served perfectly well that way for several years now, both as my motorcycle helmet, off and on, and the one I kept as a helmet for a passenger on the bike.
But the last couple years, I’ve had an increasing problem with wind noise while ridding.
For years I never wore a helmet, nor hearing protection, and I guess it’s caught up to me. I much prefer no helmet, for hearing, visibility, and just general feel and awareness of the world when ridding, not only a bike but atvs, and snowmobiles too.
I also prefer no windshield, for the same reasons.
A couple years ago when I got back into ridding a lot, I had to start wearing a helmet for hearing protection, or else I ended up with my ears ringing, and that cloudy wind tunnel effect for hours after I got off the bike.
This helmet has served well for that for a couple years, sans face shield.
But, it has its problems. Mainly, since it is designed to be a full face helmet, it doesnt have the row of denser foam in front of your ears that blocks wind on a regular 3/4 or open face style helmet.
And my sensitivity to the wind noise has worsened to where any ride even with the helmet screws up my hearing.
Last year I took to wearing hearing protection, in the form of simple foam ear plugs.
That works perfect for the wind noise. But after more than an hour on the bike, your ear canels can get sore from the constant pressure they use to seal. Softer rubber plugs have nevet sealed well enough for me to work well enough for shooting, so foam has been the only option.
Also, with the plugs, you don’t hear traffic, nor the bike. Not good. Rather dangerous in fact. It can also be disorienting, to be in motion, with little to no sound.
Add to that the audible shock of how loud the world is when you take the plugs out after having them in an hour, and I needed an alternative.
So, with a two day fuzzy feeling in my ears, and sore ears to boot from the plugs after my first good ride this season, I went looking for an alternate lid to wear; The open face helmet thst was my Dads.
Took forever to find it. With it was the shield from this helmet.
Then I found again why I hadn’t been using it; its a good size and a half too big for me!
Enter the idea to just buy a new open face helmet.
But, I have that shield…
See, I’m broke, and trying to not have to buy anything, thus digging out old helmets to try to begin with.
I’d honestly wanted to re mount the shield to it at other times in the past, but couldn’t.
Verry simply, the fancy half turn twist lock screws that hold it and the helmet side aplates on, got lost not long after they were taken out. Then at some point the shield and side plates were lost.
At times I’ve come across the shield, and even tried getting new plates and screws, but never with any success.
I’m not sure why but I’d never really thought before about creating new mounting for that shield, but this time I was considering it.
I was even looking at it to see if I could mount it fixed; at least it’d be on there even if it didn’t hinge.
And there in lies where the light bulb went on. I suddenly saw exactly how I could fix it, and have it hinge, knowing exactly what piece of hardware I could do it with!
And knowing I just happened to have two of that item left over from a mid winter project, off to the shop I went!
First up was to measure the hole in the helmet, which was 0.25″. Perfect! The hardware I we thinking of using is 1/4″!
That hardware being T-nuts.
Next, measure the outside of the nut shank, and pick a bit, I ent 0.005″ smaller, for a press for. Then still the holes out.
Then, grind down the tang spikes in the nut, flush with the rim, and test the shank fit, and press in for depth test. Then also reduce the run diameter, to fit the recess.
And, finally, applied a few touches of super glue to reinforce the nuts seat and press them in.
All that was left then was to shorten the bolts I had, so they bottom out just as the head seats, and compresses the lock washer I used. Fender washers to cover the large hole and grip the visor, then a split lock washer, and seat the bolt. Gave perfect tension on the first try! The visor “click” ratcheting opening tension works great, smooth, but with drag, but also stars put in any notch you stop on(tested with it half open at 40mph too, no movement!)
The only issue I see when done was the gap along the top, reminding me that there had been a foam piece framing the opening on the helmet before. I thought it might allow some charter of the shield.
Turns out the gap is no problem! No charter, no vibration, and no air leaks!
It cuts the wind noise I had by half or more! Perfect! I’ve only had it out for two short 10 mile rides so far, but after both, I had no hearing or ear issues! As a bonus, one of those rides I was caught in pouring rain, and the warm dry face was a Very welcome change!
As you may remember, a little over a month ago, around March 20th, I posted about losing a knife.
Well, about 1.5 weeks ago, I got a text with a picture from a friend I had visited and helped the day I lost it.
Yup! Found, amazingly intact, in his driveway, close to where I’d parked!
Took a week til last Sunday, for me to get to meet up with him and get it.
As I said, it is amazingly intact, and unhurt, for having laid in a snowy, gravely driveway for over a month!
But it isn’t unhurt either. A fair amount of rust has been acquired, although a lot of it surface rust.
The main clip blade was unopenable without repeated efforts, and some mud removal. Amazingly the secondary spear blade was stiff, but came open easilly. And is astoundingly unmarked except one small spot.
I’ll be doing a good and thorough cleaning soon, and put it back into rotation.
All will be easy enough to clean off, except the thicker corrosion on the inner side of the springs. It looks to be a loose easily removed surface rust, a flaky scale. But its location and thin limited access will make it difficult.
A challenge posted on a forum recently; If you were forcibly reduced, for whatever reason, to only having three of your folding knives, what would they be. And why.
These are mine. I picked based on the ones I’d want as my only three, but also to par that down, based on the ones I’d want if limited to just one knife. Made it easier to choose. Not easy at all, but easier. 😉
The peanut, my old and dear friend for 11 years now, and at times(some of them months, or years at a time) my only knife. The little knife that can, and does, do anything, always cutting above and beyond what you’d expect from knives twice it’s size.
The stockman, my favorite of the ones I have now, and a stockman has become my most carried and used pattern. This is a nice size, and would be well suited to be my only knife, if ever reduced to just one.
Both being my favorite traditional brand, Case, in my favorite production steel, TrueSharp(a 420 varient); it just plain works, and is easy to work with.
And last but not least, and this was a hard choice, my Kobalt folding razor knife. I wanted to call this one of my work tools, and not my EDC, to allow another favorite in the 3.
But to be honest, it’s been carried and used a LOT when I have gone months without work.. And it deserves it’s place in the 3 otherwise. This sucker has taken anything I could throw at it, professionally and personally for 7 years now. It’s bomb proof, and I dare say construction proof, even Alaska proof!
Decided I wanted to start using my Ruger Bearcat more, carry it hunting sometimes. Looked at the official Ruger holsters, and while a nice design, being straight draw, drop looped, I really tend to prefer a higher riding pancake style holster.
Looked around online, but didn’t find anything I really liked, nor anything I could afford.
A couple years ago I made a simple pancake holster for my Bersa Firestorm 380, thats worked out great, been the most comfortable gun/holster combo I’ve ever carried.
And, having the left overs from that leather in the shop… 😉
Since I liked the carry of the Bersa, I copied the shape, size, and carry cant (slightly forward/FBI style) exactly off that holster.
Only change I made was to add a “sweat shield” as they’re called, to the back top. Not really to shield the gun from me, but me from the gun; When you carry in cooler weather, without tucking a shirt in behind the gun, it can be a little cold against you! (The Bersa holster was originally made to be ambidextrous, to be worn on either side, thus it’s straight cut on the top front and back.)
Some glue, yes I know thatd a wood glue… but wood and leather are both fibrous organic substance, the glue doesn’t know the difference!
“Clamped” for a bit;
Partially stitched test fit;
Checking where I might put a tension rivet, or a line of stitching closer to the gun.
I’ll trim/round the upper corners of the back shield aftercsome carry and use, as I decide how wide, abd high it needs to be.
I decided against the tension rivet or stiches, because honestly with the firm grip it has in such a deep coverage, I don’t think it is necessary. AND, withbthe holsters shape left generally open, I hoped that my Ruger MKII would also fit in it.
Again, deep coverage of the gun, so I decided against a safety strap. I can always add it later if it seems needed.
And yes, it turned out to fit the MKII almost as perfectly!
They’re not fancy, nor perfect, but they work, and that’s what’s important to me in basic field gear. 🙂