The second half of my useless tool box conversion, the bottom half.
I had decided to try to maje a rolling yard cart, after seeing how close it was to perfectly fitting a milk crate.
Honestly, I only had one use in mind for this; A battery mover. Car and truck batteries aren’t very heavy. Unless tgeyre thr ones without handles, and yoh havr to carry it 50 yards. Then they’re heavy! Even with a carry handle, going very far is a pain.
It occurred to me that some left over CPVC pipe and fittings I had would assemble to a nice handle.
So, thats what I did.
The original door on this slid up and down in cfanels in the lower front wall. For whstever reason, they madr that lower wall in a separate piece from the rest of the box, it just snapped in. So I snapped it out;
Then it was simply setting the crate, and building filler/mount blocks around it. And also some plywood stiffeners for the back wall, to take the torque of the handle.
And then assembling and mounting the handle.
Along the way, I decided that a cord holder on the handle would be nice, like the setups on the back of vacuum cleaners. Was easy to add with cross bars and elbows.
Then I decided I wanted to paint the handle. Been using up some ancient cans of spray paint, so I chose one and went at the handle. 3 colors later I found a can that worked(most of this paint has frozen at least once, and is several years old… Thus my trying to use it up.).
Intended to only do the handle. Got carried away. 😉 At least, if nothing else, I won’t lose it in the yard!
Might go back and paint the crate and wheels black for some contrast. It’s just a bit bright for my taste!
But anyway, there it is. Didn’t buy a thing, all of it was scrap or hardware I had on hand.
Now to see if I ever actually use it. 😉
First time I’ve ever UN hot wired a vehicle! 😉
Back story is as follows; A buddy had his ATV stolen out of his yard in May. Insurance payed off and he got a new one… 3 weeks later, the troopers said “hey, we got your wheeler back”.
He’s run out of time for projects this summer, but would like to sell it to cover the difference between the cost of the new one and the insurance paid.
So, I’m putting it back together and selling it for him.
If it was a horse I’d say rode hard, put up wet… They didn’t baby it, but I wouldn’t say they thrashed it.
Needs a few things cleaned up, and put back together since they had started to strip it.
First up was fixing the hacked hot wire job. Then test ridding to make sure they didn’t screw the driveline etc.. It all works great!
Wiring like this isn’t too hard when you have a full wiring diagram to start with (free download of full factory service manual!)
And, your supplied with a new switch, and the proper plug for it. Got wire extension colors close on a couple…
Scrounged and shortened the harness wires for an aftermarket switch pod I’d bought for mine.
The harness wires to the switch had been cut so short I had to add something, but having them all one color would be a pain.
The next guy is going to wonder what the heck, but at least he won’t be fighting to track a wire in a bundle of all red or all black wires..
Couple days work on a few little cosmetic details and rewiring a winch, and then you should see it on Craigslist Fairbanks. 🙂
The previous parts of this saga, were;
The clutch going out.
A weight bushing and shaft worn, and a broken weight roller on the spider, jamming between weight and roller, late last fall.
Parked it for the winter.
Then this spring, I decided that if I took out the pivot shafycfir the weight, and that the weight couldn’t come out without disassembly of the clutch, it wouldn’t bind and jam, and should work on 3 weights.
Which it did, flawlessly.
For about 3 months.
Then it managed to get the magic amount of rpm, clearance, and weight orientation to throw the weight. About 3.5 weeks ago.
Turned out at that point, that when still “floating” in the clutch, even though the weight wasn’t helping engage the clutch, that it’s trapped weight/mass was balancing the clutch!
Horrendous vibration ensued, causing engine over heating, a high pitched hum, and increasing belt slipage. And eventually would no doubt eat engine bearings…
I rode it some for work around the homestead, but I’m the clutch slippage was getting worse every time I ran it.
So… part 4.
I decided to replace the weight shaft, and bushing, making both myself to save cost.
To add back the weight, but held in this time as intended to be, and eliminate the play that allowed it to bind up. The broken roller on the spider could wait a little while.
Being lazy won out over being broke. Twice. First time about 3 weeks ago, I was going to lathe turn a new pivot shaft.
Was easier to buy a new one.
This time I was going to make the bushing for the weight … Never had the time or drive to do it for over a week.
Found a atv/cycle parts place with amazingly reasonable shipping rates to Alaska (bikebandit.com).
Few days later I have shiny little parts!
Got 4 since everything online says you’ll crush a couple learning to press them in.
I used a new bushing over the old shaft, slid through the old bushing/weight, nut on top to act as a stop, and drove the old one out while seating the new one…
Slight bur created on end of new one trimmed out with a drill bit by hand. Took 5 min total, if that. And I have 3 bushings left!
If nothing else I have the bushings to later do the other 3 weights.
Then came instalation in the clutch.
REALLY wanted to do this without pulling the clutch off the engine. I bought a puller last winter, but there are a lot of horror stories about broken clutch pullers, and having to then cut the clutch up to get it off. If you got a cheap puller. I did get a cheap, but not the cheapest puller…
Couldn’t compress the clutch into the belt loop (as it does when the clutch is working, to open the area around the weight) as I had hoped I could, with clamps.
Suddenly realized I could enlarge that belt loop, and clearance in it, by letting the belt tighten on the secondary clutch!
Pry open secondary clutch, pull belt foreward, press primary clutch half inward, hold in place with clamp, insert weight, drive in new shaft(light press fit in clutch), install nuts, tighten.
Voila! That was amazingly easy. Not sure why, but God sure does like me!
plugged in the belt safety switch in the cover, wired the cover to the rack as high as possible, kept my leg out of the clutches for a short test ride in the yard (don’t try this at home kids).
NO MORE VIBRATION! Works like a DREAM!! Took less than an hour total! $50 max total spent, used a whopping $11 in parts!
If I’d known that could go that easy, I’d have gotten the parts and done it months ago!
Bolted cover on and rode it 10 miles; perfect! No vibration, no high pitch buzz, no belt slip, no motor over heating, good clutch engagement!!
Back to the way it was last year(yikes, hard to believe its been 10 months it first messed up!) before any of the clutch issues!!
Now, technically I still need to replace the clutch center spider, that houses the (broken)roller that the weight runs on.
But given how little wear there is on the weight compared to the rest of the worn parts, I think it is causing very little damage, very slowly.
I’m pretty sure it can wait a month or two of reasonable riding, for me to save the funds to get the spider, and build the tools needed to disassemble the clutch to change it.
I will also be periodically checking on the play in that weight on the shaft–
(and, as a side point it’s now the tightest of all four… the other 4 bushings could use done within a couple years m, I’m sure.)
–because, there is a section where the wear had eaten into the weight, that the new bushing is unsupported.
Probably be fine for a long time, but I’ll check it from time to time just to be sure.
Might just weld up that spot when I have it apart to do the spider. Or spring for a new weight. But unless it starts to bind again, I can’t see this causing any wear being a problem, for a while anyway.
I’ve also decided that even though it still looks great, this couldn’t have been good for the belt, and I gave no idea how old it is anyway. I’ll put a new belt on it as soon as I can afford it. Hopefully when I replace the clutch spider; Since the clutch has to come off to change the belt (what idiot thought that up??!?), and I’d like to minimize times I have to do that…
A buddy of mine is converting his outboard river boat to an inboard. Going from a outboard prop to inboard jet.
The motor is a GM made Ecotec supercharged in line 4 cyl 2.4L. Mostly stock Except some EFI, exhaust, and cooling components. 240HP. And the super charger is off of a 2.2L Ecotec… the 2.4s didn’t come with them.
The outboard that came off was 80HP.
He had a custom boat(among other things ) welding shop that another buddy works at chop, channel the boat and build the motor and jet pump mounts in the boat. Then he’s done all the install, wiring, tuning(most of it) etc himself.
There is a lot of custom stuff done with this motor, it’s a popular one to swap into things, but this is the only jet boat, and IIRC only boat of any kind in the world with one!
I was out with him on Monday the 18th for the first ever in water running and tuning. We spent 9 hours on the water, only about 45 min running it. The rest of the time was chasing fuel supply issues, mostly mechanical, but also in tuning the computer control of the EFI..
I’ve learned an Epic amount of stuff that I didn’t know about how EFI systems work.
There is a lot of his builds details posted on a couple forums;
Apparently jet boats are Really popular in NZ? A lot of the info hes using came from down there!
It just amazes me, the new motor and jet setup is only about 100lbs heavier than the old setup, if that much, he’s still only drafting 6″ under this thing,(on step it has to be 3″ or less!) With selling the outboard motor off it, he’s almost broke even, and gained 100+ HP ( 80 to 240, but ya lose some to the jet pump).
Unfortunately I lot all my video and pics from that day except one shot;
Yeah, the scenery is pretty epic too! 🙂
That lake is unique in the area, and relatively new, only been there a couple years. It’s only about 1/2 mile, maybe a touch more across the London way, 1/4 the other way I’d guess… BUT It’s within 2 minutes of the industrial part of town, and 5 minutes from metro/downtown, a 10 min max from just about anywhere in Fairbanks.
It’s Deep, has a great launch and floating dock, picnic areas, bathroom facilities, and allows power boats. That last one is the big thing… Otherwise it’s a 1.5 to 2 hour drive to a lake that allows powered craft. Otherwise it’s the rivers… But playing in a current can get old, and these are shallow water rivers… Can be less than fun at times.
It’s perfect for this project, as shallows and a current could be killer for testing a new motor!
As a bonus, this lake does outlet into the Tanana river, so it has options. And fish.. 😉
So, onto the next time we were our with it, last Saturday;
Junk yard GM ecotec 2.4L with a supercharger from a 2.2L. Full custom setup for fuel delivery and injectors( the only GM part left is the rail itself). The jet pump unit is top of the line made by Scott.
Our day out the first time that Monday, 9 hours on the water, 45 min run time mixed with problems…. But it did run all the time… or would run for short times.
This last time out on Saturday, boat was in the water 6 house before we got it to run at all… uhuh.
First 3 hours it would fire over but not stay running. We were trying to run it without an O2 sensor (which technically it should do!) since the machinist that’s making the O2 adapter for the marine water jacketed exhaust had the sensor.
We had his spare sensor, but different plug/wire harness and colors. Tried unsuccessfully to hot wire it in.
Drove the 40 miles(1.5 hours) round trip and picked up the right O2 sensor.
Then it wouldn’t even fire!
Checked and found no spark.
Serriously turning into a rough day at this point. After over an hour of checking everything, I found a main fuse blown. We’d shorted out something and blown power to the whole setup when hot wiring the first O2 sensor! Oops!!
Them it ran great! Other than a hick up or two at about 3200 rpm, where it would stall out, and if you pushed it, the compute would kill the electronic throttle…
We found out later that the tuning/computer fuel tables transition at that point to a higher rpm/load setup, but it not set right and it leans out too far– enough to cook the motor fast– computer was doing right to protect the motor when it was cutting off.
So that will need chased in the programing, to richen up that tables’ mixture curve.
For the rest of our testing we kept it below 3K without a hitch.
Its a non issue for general run though. We hit 50% throttle and 25 to 30 mph at 2800 rpm or below depending on load in the boat.
And there is the big point; load in the boat.
First run with around 900 pounds in the boat and it went “on step” within a boat length, and ran like it was empty!
So we bumped up to all we had.
Two 50 gallon drums, two 20 gallon drums all full of water, my friend and I, and we had 1800 pounds in the boat.
With the full 1800 in it, it took maybe 40 feet to get on step, then ran 40% throttle to 25 mph, at around 3000 rpm, ran fantastic, circle after circle in the lake, without a hitch.
Never bogged, never pulled bad… was almost like an empty boat!!
Technically, the hull itself is only rated at about 1800 pounds, so add in motor, jet pump, and gear weight etc, we were a good 500 pounds over that. Ha!
So the most weight you could ever safely have in there, and more than you’d ever really need to, and it ran basically like the loaf just wasn’t there.
100% success to the project! (A single 66″ moose, 2 guys and their gear last fall with the 115 hp outboard, he couldn’t get it on step, and they got back with less than 2 gallons of gas to spare. Almost didn’t get back, basically!) The point wasn’t a speed demon, but a super weight hauler for hunting. I think he’s got it.
A bonus too, on about the third loop around at constant rpm/speed, the fuel ratio suddenly improved by dropping on air percentage.. anything over 15% is bad, and 17ish on up will cook the motor.
We were running between 14 and 14.7 to start, at cruise speed. OK but not great. It suddenly dropped to 12.5. The computer is learning what it can do, and what the motor needs, and is tuning itself.
At this point, the more it runs, the better it should run the mixtures as it continues to learn. Shouldn’t have to worry about it as much.
Anyway, our last two runs of the day, part one and two from in the boat. And part three from the launch, while we waited for some kids to get out of the way of loading on the trailer.
Slight hitch at the end of this next one… lol.
Sorry you don’t get to see me.. (lucky you actually! ) we started out both filming, but he ran out of hands between throttle, steering wheel, and phone… lol.
So, anyway, this has really been a lot of fun for me, I’m super grateful he’s included me, and allowed me to be a part of helping with this.
As you all know, I Really enjoy custom work, things out of the ordinary. Along with my automotive interests, growing interest in boats, and absolute (if probably a bit weird)love of troubleshooting, improvising and chasing a problem, I really am loving this project.
As I type this, he is mounting the marine water jacket exhaust(last few days anyway), and custom O2 sensor mount. Be interesting to see how, or if, that changes the run of the motor.
All things stay good, and God willing, on the 3rd of August this boat is one of three going on a church group fishing/camping trip. 3 days in Minto Flats, one of the biggest and most remote norther pike hot spots in the state. Yes, I’m going! 😉 😀
Among other things that spin. I’ll just leave these here;
Currently trying to find a new one that I can afford. Actually, afford to ship is more accurate.
The pivot wear;
(Bonus points awarded if you can tell me what it is 😉😎😈 )
This has been a long time in the works. I started ordering parts in early to mid June. Took about 3, 3.5 weeks for everything to come. Then I had to find time to start it…
Then decided I had to do the fuse block first, which took several days over last week. Now I’ve finally got the turn signals wired in, which also too a few days spread out over several total.
Covering the fuse block install and the turn signals, I believe I have about 50 hours in this wiring and mounting.
Yes, I’m epically slow at wiring!
Why turn signals? I dunno, just seemed like it’d be cool . 😎 Why not? (No, unlike in some states I can’t make a quad street legal in Alaska.)
When I get the second flasher hooked up and have hazard lights, that could have a practical use, for emergencies, or simply visibility. But, these I don’t really need–but who cares? 😉
I bought two styles of small cheap motorcycle turn signals, off ebay. Serriously, these things were about $5 a pair!
I originally intended the round ones for the rear, and the pointed ones for the front, to match a bumper bar angle.
But in the interim while waiting for them to come, I mounted the front bull bar, and changed the bar angles and openings..
Tuned out great though, I really think the look fits better this way.
I did the rears first, designed mounts, and spacing, working off the right side… Then got ready to mount the left side and realized it didn’t clear the rear winch motor. Oops.
Slight rearrangement, flipped the brackets side to side, and turned over, and a small angle, and it’s perfect!
The brackets are a simple angle iron, but at least 3″ on one leg… Not common, and especially not in my scrap bin..
I remembered some 2″x4″ rectangular tube I got from scrapping a BowFlex. Slightly bigger than what I wanted. Then again I remembered some other older tube I had, that is 1.75″X3″. Used that.
Cut off 1″ long, then split into two “L”s.
Worked great, being tubing made by forming then welding it up one side; It has a crease halfway along one long side.
That gave me a perfect locator to drill mount holes exactly the same distance from the end on both. The crease also worked as a centering locator on the front bumper tube, keeps it from twisting as easy. For the rears I used the other side Ls, that were flat and straight.
The rears mounted;
Bracket is on the lower bumper mount bolts, sandwiched between frame and bumper. Since these lights had ground wires, I ran them to the upper bumper bolts.
The fronts turned out to be really easy, using the exact same brackets, bolted to the bull bar, and angle trimmed to match it for looks.
And amazingly they ground! Even though that bar isn’t directly bolted on, it has great continuity! I didn’t have to use the ground wires I first installed. (These lights came setup to ground off their mount studs, I was adding wires.)
Yes, I’m an electronics techs’ nightmare lol. 😉 Looks worse than it is actually, it’s all cleanly routed together(as clean as possible without a bare frame to start with anyway), down each side of the wheeler, and zip tied off.
If I was installing everything at once it would get wire loom/covering… but I don’t have that luxury(kinda glad actually –that stuff is expensive!)
Hot wired test half way through;
Finally had to pull all the front plastic half way through… really wanted to do it with it on, but my hands are just too big.. lol.
Getting the wires from the switch pod tail run..
Yeah, I even did indicator lamps. getting fancy here, I know! The custom dash in my truck doesn’t even have the indicators installed and it’s been 4 years since I put that in! Lol.
And back(hard to see, but they’re there);
The other two switches on that pod are designed as a 2 position low/high light switch, and a momentary horn button.
When I get the hazard flasher wired in, I’m going to use the light switch for them. Simply leaving nothing on the “low” circuit for “off”, and “on” on the “high” beam position/circuit.
Not completely sure about the momentary button yet(working on an idea though!).
Got really really tired of everything being too low to work on, even sitting down…
I do have a hydraulic motorcycle/atv lift, but it goes under the frame only, isn’t really stable for this type of work.
I’ve also done stuff with it on my wheel ramps before, about 9″ of lift, but that’s still a PITA at times.
Thus, my redneck Alaskan ATV lift.
My two old truck boxes (one a Rubbermaid chest, I wasn’t sure if it would take it, but it seems to not care about the weight! ), some scrap 2×12, and voila 16″ of lift!
Front box being wider turned out great, didn’t plan it, but it’s enough to straddle and sit on, or stand on if needed.
Should have took pics of the first try getting it up there… Used my wheel ramps and one turned over after the front wheels when up… Was awkward getting it off at an angle with no ramp under one side. Lol.