This has been a long time in the works. I started ordering parts in early to mid June. Took about 3, 3.5 weeks for everything to come. Then I had to find time to start it…
Then decided I had to do the fuse block first, which took several days over last week. Now I’ve finally got the turn signals wired in, which also too a few days spread out over several total.
Covering the fuse block install and the turn signals, I believe I have about 50 hours in this wiring and mounting.
Yes, I’m epically slow at wiring!
Why turn signals? I dunno, just seemed like it’d be cool . 😎 Why not? (No, unlike in some states I can’t make a quad street legal in Alaska.)
When I get the second flasher hooked up and have hazard lights, that could have a practical use, for emergencies, or simply visibility. But, these I don’t really need–but who cares? 😉
I bought two styles of small cheap motorcycle turn signals, off ebay. Serriously, these things were about $5 a pair!
I originally intended the round ones for the rear, and the pointed ones for the front, to match a bumper bar angle.
But in the interim while waiting for them to come, I mounted the front bull bar, and changed the bar angles and openings..
Tuned out great though, I really think the look fits better this way.
I did the rears first, designed mounts, and spacing, working off the right side… Then got ready to mount the left side and realized it didn’t clear the rear winch motor. Oops.
Slight rearrangement, flipped the brackets side to side, and turned over, and a small angle, and it’s perfect!
The brackets are a simple angle iron, but at least 3″ on one leg… Not common, and especially not in my scrap bin..
I remembered some 2″x4″ rectangular tube I got from scrapping a BowFlex. Slightly bigger than what I wanted. Then again I remembered some other older tube I had, that is 1.75″X3″. Used that.
Cut off 1″ long, then split into two “L”s.
Worked great, being tubing made by forming then welding it up one side; It has a crease halfway along one long side.
That gave me a perfect locator to drill mount holes exactly the same distance from the end on both. The crease also worked as a centering locator on the front bumper tube, keeps it from twisting as easy. For the rears I used the other side Ls, that were flat and straight.
The rears mounted;
Bracket is on the lower bumper mount bolts, sandwiched between frame and bumper. Since these lights had ground wires, I ran them to the upper bumper bolts.
The fronts turned out to be really easy, using the exact same brackets, bolted to the bull bar, and angle trimmed to match it for looks.
And amazingly they ground! Even though that bar isn’t directly bolted on, it has great continuity! I didn’t have to use the ground wires I first installed. (These lights came setup to ground off their mount studs, I was adding wires.)
Yes, I’m an electronics techs’ nightmare lol. 😉 Looks worse than it is actually, it’s all cleanly routed together(as clean as possible without a bare frame to start with anyway), down each side of the wheeler, and zip tied off.
If I was installing everything at once it would get wire loom/covering… but I don’t have that luxury(kinda glad actually –that stuff is expensive!)
Hot wired test half way through;
Finally had to pull all the front plastic half way through… really wanted to do it with it on, but my hands are just too big.. lol.
Getting the wires from the switch pod tail run..
Yeah, I even did indicator lamps. getting fancy here, I know! The custom dash in my truck doesn’t even have the indicators installed and it’s been 4 years since I put that in! Lol.
And back(hard to see, but they’re there);
The other two switches on that pod are designed as a 2 position low/high light switch, and a momentary horn button.
When I get the hazard flasher wired in, I’m going to use the light switch for them. Simply leaving nothing on the “low” circuit for “off”, and “on” on the “high” beam position/circuit.
Not completely sure about the momentary button yet(working on an idea though!).