Plastic Parts

The Alaskan Log Cabin Valet Tray.

This started as an idea for a contest at printables.com;

https://www.printables.com/contest/334-catch-all-trays

Here is also where this model is on that site;

https://www.printables.com/model/380531-the-alaskan-log-cabin-valet-tray

Figured, if Anyone should/could be designing an EDC related item for printing, it would be me, right? 😉

Problem is, I don’t use the things!

I had one idea for this but brushed it off as too… hokey? I dunno, too rediculous in some way.

The more I thought about it, I couldn’t get really entheused about it, because I don’t use the things… I have a specific place I put current carry, its a dump place, but I’ve never done the whole box/tray/ whatever thing, unless I’m house sitting somewhere and need to Create a safe place. Its just not ever been a me thing at home.

But, THEN the more I think about it too, it could be a fun project to model my idea, and who cares if its a little over the top on a theme? So, for the fun of it, Iwent ahead and did it.

I give you, The Alaskan Dump Tray.
Or The Log Cabin Valet tray.
You’re choice.

And the Mini version,

I got a little carried away, I have it as a fully parametarized file(As in it runs in the OpenSCAD customizer pane, there all parameters are easy to edit by Anyone with the software, no 3D or coding experiance needed..Poimt and click without editing the model(s)) Can change; The log height(count), log diameter, inner area length and width, turn on or off 1 or 2 inner walls, and move the two inner divider walls around(although they always cross and make 2 compartments equal length… I’m too lazy so far to cut it up and make it 4 walls if wanted), and the inner wall height and log diameter is settable independantly of the main walls, and each other.

The big one Barely fits on my printer, and actually is barely big enough for what I’d want/need.
The little one was a compromise of print time, and space… I can get my average knife, light, multi and watch into it.. Although ironically todays items don’t fit. lol. I printed the little one to have something to take pics for the contest, and because it was only 4 hours to print. The big one would take 7.5 hours, at my coursest resolution.(I printed the small one course for both time, and I figured the rough layers would look better for logs… it does fit I think!)

For this one I went with 3 courses, 10mm dia on the outer walls, and 8mm on the inner wall, seemsed like a good look, and a nice scale. Fresh off the printer!

Some shop gear “EDC” in it;

And, some of today, the basics.

Overall, I’m rather happy with it! Looks like I wanted, and isn’t anything bad like I’d imagined it might end up. I think it came out just fun and interesting, not over the top on “Alaska” or log cabin woodsie LOL.

Categories: 3D Printing, Boxes, Custom, Daily-cary-log, EDC, EDC/MT use, Engineering & Design, Just Plain Fun, key-chains, knives, Life-Philosophy, New Gear, OpenSCAD, PLA, Plastic Parts, Prototypes, Retro, Theory/Thoughts, Traditional

Poor Mans Plastic Parts, Round Two!

Aaaaaaaannnnndddd, Round Two!

Wanted to build a little socket set for part of this kit to go with a 3/8″ impact driver. Needed a way to keep them all in their side of the box. Couple/three hours (not sure, 3 projects at once…) modeling and test prints for fit, 3 hours printing lid and support blocks, 1/2 hour assembly. Supports have captive magnets, and are screwed and (hot) glued in. Magnets press fit into the lid. Good and secure, can put the sockets in it and lift that side of the case! Can also put the sockets in it turn it over and shake the heck out of it, but not the sockets; lid stays put! OpenSCAD modeling, Cura slicer, Elegoo Neptune 2S printer. Hatchbox Blue and Silver PLA.

Had some bed adheashion issues, and layer adheashion issues, that resulted in the scars(once one layer is scarred it just continued upward with the scar till the top… It didn’t smooth over them. )Its clean enough for a functional print, IE not having to be purdy just solid. I don’t like it in principle, but in application I don’t mind it, it adds character.

Categories: 3D Printing, A.I.O., Automotive, Custom, Customized, Design, Engineering & Design, Fabrication, Modifications, OpenSCAD, PLA, Plastic Parts, Prototypes, Re-purpose, Tool Boxes, tool mods, Truck EDC, Truck gear

Introducing, The Grangler.

 A couple months ago, soon after my shiny new 3D printer arrived, (yes, yes, need to post about that in details, I know…) with new flashlights, and playing around with carry concepts, I’d found I needed another Prangler. its been my favorite EVER for keychain carry, I have it at 11oclock on a belt loop all the time. Always secure, never a problem, I’ve never lost it off of me, but its the fastest easiest access.

Decided I wanted that for my flashlight, which has for years been caribinered to a belt loop at 9oclock.(southpaw!)
Yes, I’ve played with different carabiners and clips before. Just before this I had gone out and found THE perect caribiner, and also, had splurged for one new Prangler.(looks like that post about caribiners missed being Here… Will try to get it uploaded!)

Whats new now, was I found I needed about 3 more of them. 1 on keys, and one to swap around on 4 or 5 flashlights is a PITA.
But I’m unimployed for the year, and funds are short for Titanium trinkets… For a while now I was going to ask Eng1nerd Designs if he minded If I just made myself another Prangler, maybe in brass or copper. But I couldn’t do it, felt too cheeky.

((ANyone interested in a titanium Prangler, let me know in the comments and I’ll get you in touch with Zach, AKA Eng1nerd 🙂 ))

Also recently, winter had finally caught up to us, and I re-discover another issue, that I’ve had with ‘biners, and now the Prangler; its 0F to 10F out and I’m wearing heavy gloves. I CAN opperate a biner with them, but its annoying. I do the prangler for my keys pretty well, because most places I need them, I can’t get the key I want, or unlock a door with the gloves on.. So gloves off for them is fine.

But for the lights, I’d like to stay gloves on if I can.

Also something else I’ve thought about, is I have NEVER used the Pry feature on the Prangler. Actually thought about grinding the tip off the 2nd one I had just got.

So, you might see where this is heading…

I took what I liked and needed, in basic form from the prangler, added, subtracted, and designed my own belt loop dangler. 

:D

Enter, the Grangler.
G(rippy D)angler.

First was to sit down and copy the Prangler.
and do a test print on my geometry, I wanted the same slot/loop hole size and shape, it works so perfect on the Pranglers.

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Then, add and subtract what I need and don’t.
Rounded off the top end, no more pry bar.
Removed the mid and upper holes, since I’ve never hung anything from them, to me it gets too messy/bulky and rats nests too much.

Then, added a wide grip area to that side.
And realizing the holes if nothing else provide grip texture, put them back, but in 1/4″ hex holes.
No I don’t intend to ever use them as a driver, after all its in 3mm plastic… But in a pinch its possible. I just wanted traction.

Voila!

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As I went the thickness progressed, from the same as the Pranglers, up a bit, then a little more. The thickest one I have is about 4mm(3.81mm or 0.150″), and I used two different “fill” patterns for strengths… can’t tell any difference, they’re all about the same strength. The narrow side bar on them all is springy side to side(width of the bar), and a little more top to bottom(ie with the thickness) which is still fine. I can pull on both bars as hard as I can sideways(direction it would pull if I snag what ever I have on it) with just the finger grip I can get, I can’t break the sucker off!

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The outcome is perfect! The grip is great, even with gloves, they hang just like the Prangler, safe and secure, but easy on and easy off, AND with the gloves on its no hitch whatsoever!! I had been a little worried about the PLA in the cold, but several weeks now of constant use between 30F and -40F, and you figure the only heat these get is anything radiating off my hip… not a lot lol, it never seemed brittle, or anyway I didn’t notice if it was, didn’t seem to bother it at all.

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So far I have about a dozen of them on various flashlights, knives, and tools. In 4 different matterials, and almost a dozen colors. PLA and wood fiber PLA, PETG, all work fine. The translucent white ones up above are even Glow In The Dark!

Categories: Adventure Metal Works, custom-made-tools, Customized, Danglers/carabiners, Design, EDC, Engineering & Design, Fabrication, key-chains, New Gear, New Products, OpenSCAD, PETG, PLA, Plastic Parts, Preparedness, Prototypes

Pocketable 380 Ammo.(3D Printed)

This is the project that caused battery boxes in the previous post.

Realized one afternoon recently that I needed a within the day relaod for my pocket pistol; after having to shoot at a stray violent dog, I was left with only 3 rounds in my CCW for the rest of the day. Not that I needed to reload to actively shoot, but I needed a reload for any possible shooting later in the day. Something in between carrying a full box of ammo and a true reload in another magazine(which I’ve done in the past and never needed, and find a useless weight/cost). Came up with this, compact and easy for day bags, glove boxes or even jacket pockets. 

Modeled on official cartridge specs, plus a few mm at the to for different brand lengths, and a 1mm inclusive diameter clearance, for easy slip in and out. I wanted them loose for ease of handling, don’t care that it rattles a bit.  Scale it up a bit in x,y, I’m sure I could get 9mm into it just fine.  Only 6 rounds for compactness, and my pistol only holds 6+1 anyway.  If I ever think I need more, I’ll make one longer. 😉

This version is printed half in red Hatchbox PLA, and the lid in Sunlu PETG… Why? because the PETG is new to me(great Christmas present from @alaskalinuxuser )and I could.. 🙂

Again, this uses a trick I found on youtube, Negative Volume Printing, to print inner and outer contours as one line in vase mode, fast and easy. No infill, and a split side, but plenty sturdy enough for this task. 

A great bonus to doing this, other than its just fun; 2nd maganzine; about $60 last I checked. This box; couple hours at the computer and about $0.50. 😀

The Files are again available at Printables, but honestly this is obsolete, unless you just want 6x 380 auto. GO look at the Barry Carriers instead, if you have access to OpenSCAD, the custom parameters (NO coding needed, its point and click!) you can make these for Any cartridge, and any count. (as long as it fits on your printer!) And yes, technically these will print outside of vase mode, if you want infill and some more structure.

Categories: 380 Auto, 3D Printing, Ammo, Boxes, CAD, Day Bag, EDC, Guns, New Gear, OpenSCAD, PLA, Plastic Parts, Pocketable, Storage, Truck EDC

Slip cases for batteries.(3D printed)

Anyone need some slip top battery carriers? 

I did. 

Well, kinda… This was a drift of another project I did in the last few days, a small cartridge box. Realized the same design could be made to hold just about any cylendrical item… like a battery. SO I remodeled from the ground up to give me a fully parameter-izable model. Now I just plug in numbers and I get different sized cases. 

I Have wanted a safe way to carry a spare 18650 for a while(not that I HAVE a spare but thats besides the point… I have ended up with a loose cell some days and its annoying. )

Anyway. 

battery cases! 

I did 3 basic designs for me, a 4xAA box, a 3xAAA box(headlamps anyone?) and a 2×18650 box(somehow, not shown… hrrm.).  Need to go back and do something for 2 or 3 16340 or CR123, just in case I ever need it. OR wait till I need it… lol. That was the concept to an easy to use pre modeled file.. Print as I need things instead of 2 days of modeling every time. 

These are printed in PETG, a little stronger than the other plastic I have(PLA), with a good heat resistance, and a bonus of being resistant to most chemicals, and waterproof(most soda and water bottles are PET or PETG).

To be geeky; they are printed from a 0.4mm nozzle at a whopping 0.8mm line width(everything says not to go over 150% of nozzle width, which would be 0,6mm… I haven’t had a single issue with 0.8mm. Tempted to try a full 1mm.) in vase mode(Spiralized outer contour in Cura) at 0.25mm layer height, 235C nozzle, 70C bed temps. Filament is Sunlu 1.75mm PETG. All from a Elegoo Neptune 2S.

I’m trying not to totally 3D geek out in these printing posts, but will tell you a little about the mechanics, and the trick I found, for getting these to print in a different style.Normally these would take about 1.5 hours to print top and bottom, and use about a dollars worth of plastic. IN “Vase Mode” they print in 1/3 of that time, and use half the plastic, or less. The thing is, that Vase mode, normally only prints the outermost surface of an item as one continuous line. It compketely ignores the insides no matter what it is, and can’t print any horizontal surfaces beyont to base/bottom. Thanks to a guy on YouTube, I now have a trick. You slightly change the structure, by slitting into the side of the object, connecting the inner and outer surfaces, in essence tricking the software so it prints both. No top surface, and Slight loss of structural integrity(although the clearances could be tightened so that the lines touch and fuse at the ends! ) but for most things the difference is negligable…. UNless its something you plan to run over with a tank… then this might not be a good approach. 😉

Anyone interested in the print files,both STL and the fully parametarized OpenSCAD file to create different boxes, I have it uploaded to my account at printables.   A big bonus, this will make cartridge boxes, just need dimensions of the cartridge in question!

https://www.printables.com/model/358094-parametric-vase-mode-battery-casesopenscad

Categories: 3D Printing, Batteries, CAD, Cura, Custom, custom-made-tools, Day Bag, EDC, Electronics/Media, Fabrication, New Gear, OpenSCAD, PETG, Plastic Parts, Preparedness, Slicing, Vase Mode

Poor mans custom plastic parts.

Sooo… What do you do if you need fancy custom fit plastic parts but don’t have a 3D printer?

You dig out a glue gun and some dusty Lego plates!

Needed a hinged lid to close in one half of a Kobalt bit driver case. Voila;

Used a hinged bit holder insert that I didn’t need as the hinge, built up a riser and door, and a stop/latch block. Hot glued the riser/door to the hinge and the stop in the other end. Magnet and a stacked nut/washer for right height glued in for safety latch.

brown stripe because I couldn’t find another black 2×16.

Where it opens to/sits on its own.

where I can hold it open to;

This little recess here;

Fits this little latching nub on the other half off the case;

Now I have closed in socket storage;

Clears everything on the opposite side

Magnetic latch;

Latch might get a re-design.. Will see how it holds up.

More on the kit itself later. Its a companion setup for a specific power tool in a specific application. Need to finish figuring out what sockets I want in it, and collect them, along with a couple other drivers.

This kinda rough, and a bit of a redneck hack. But it works! And thats what counts to me. 🙂

Categories: 3D Printing, Adapters, Custom, Customized, Fabrication, LEGO, MacGyver, Modifications, Plastic Parts, Re-purpose, Tool Boxes, tool mods, tools-bit kit, Truck EDC

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