Took me two years to outfit my Kawasaki the way I wanted it. Got it just about set up perfect for my uses.
Problem is, I got another ATV! A bare, dead stock one at that. So, here we go again.
On the Kawi, I went with adding a front dry box, and a rear rack extension/rack wall.
On this one, a Polaris, the front dry box, while a little small, is provided, built into the fenders/rack.
So I set out to add rack walls. Most ATV racks suck for keeping things in place, even with a bungee cord or two, things tend to slide off the edges/sides.
The last one I built on the Kawi, I just cut some light scrap tubing and welded it up. Simple. But time and labor intensive. Time is not something I have a lot of this fall.
So, I set out to get some trays, or shallow boxes to mount, left open without lids, I get a cargo tray, the same effect.
In my research, looking for boxes I actually found plastic cargo trays made for ATVs. But other than one that Arctic Cat made, out of production now, there are none sold in the USA. Seems its a popular item in Australia.
Thats basically what I was after, but on the cheap.
Know how hard it is to find a plastic storage tote thats 1.5’x3′ or 2’x3′ or bigger, but only about 6″ to 8″ deep?
the best bet is “under bed storage” boxes. Long wide and flat.
Unfortunately nothing I liked was in stock locally.
Also, very few have latching lids. Yes, I wanted to mount them as open trays, but if you pay for lids, they might as well be useful!
Anyway, after 5 stores over two trips to town, I found two I liked. The first is a simple light Sterilite box, snap on lid. The other is a Hefty storage box, with a latching lid.
First step was painting, since they came in that milky clear plastic. The green is double coat primer/paint, rated for among other things plastic, by Rustoleum. The brown for the lids is the same basic thing, but made by Krylon. (Got at separate times, different stores. I prefer Rustoleum paint in general, it goes on easier, more durable, but the Krylon works fine too.)
Why green and brown? I’m sick of green with all black accessories.
The rear box went on as is. The front on the other hand, had to be cut to fit around the headlight pod/handlebars. A simple process with a sharpie for layout and an angle grinder (proverbial hot knife through butter, works great on plasic!). While I was at it I cut the lid. Not probable I’ll ever use it, but I had it so why not.
Mounting was simpler still. A handful, 4 or 6 self tapping screws for each box. Located the boxes wherd I wanted them, drilled through them for hole placement, and screwed them down.
Screws I used for the front tray went into the front storage box, so I used screws made for metal roofing; They have a rubber bottomed washer under the head that seals, so they don’t leak. I also drilled a few holes in low corners so the trays don’t flood and hold water anyway.
Maybe an hours work and about $40 including the paint. Not too bad!
And, they work great too!
The second half of my useless tool box conversion, the bottom half.
I had decided to try to maje a rolling yard cart, after seeing how close it was to perfectly fitting a milk crate.
Honestly, I only had one use in mind for this; A battery mover. Car and truck batteries aren’t very heavy. Unless tgeyre thr ones without handles, and yoh havr to carry it 50 yards. Then they’re heavy! Even with a carry handle, going very far is a pain.
It occurred to me that some left over CPVC pipe and fittings I had would assemble to a nice handle.
So, thats what I did.
The original door on this slid up and down in cfanels in the lower front wall. For whstever reason, they madr that lower wall in a separate piece from the rest of the box, it just snapped in. So I snapped it out;
Then it was simply setting the crate, and building filler/mount blocks around it. And also some plywood stiffeners for the back wall, to take the torque of the handle.
And then assembling and mounting the handle.
Along the way, I decided that a cord holder on the handle would be nice, like the setups on the back of vacuum cleaners. Was easy to add with cross bars and elbows.
Then I decided I wanted to paint the handle. Been using up some ancient cans of spray paint, so I chose one and went at the handle. 3 colors later I found a can that worked(most of this paint has frozen at least once, and is several years old… Thus my trying to use it up.).
Intended to only do the handle. Got carried away. 😉 At least, if nothing else, I won’t lose it in the yard!
Might go back and paint the crate and wheels black for some contrast. It’s just a bit bright for my taste!
But anyway, there it is. Didn’t buy a thing, all of it was scrap or hardware I had on hand.
Now to see if I ever actually use it. 😉
And you don’t have time to get more before you have to deliver a product, you improvise.
When i got nails for my brad nailer, I needed 5/8″ and at least about 1.25″. The 2″ was cheaper, and the length wouldn’t hurt the project, so thats what I got.
Forgot to check if thd long ones would fit the nailer.
But these fit;
Wondered if i could score a line on a stick, and snap them off shorter with the stick intact… Couldn’t hurt to try!
And voila! Shorter nails that fit!
They work flawlessly too, the now one sided bevel on the tip doesn’t seem to effect a thing.
A.I.O. Simple. 🙂
(Adapt, Improvise, Overcome)
Last summer a buddy of mines neighbor gave him an ice fishing tent… Brand new, in box. The guy had got it as a gift or something, and didn’t need two.. something like that IIRC. But unfortunately the guy was a little drunk when he was giving it away, and insisted on showing my friend how to set it up.
Uhuh. Broke two poles in the process. And I’m really not sure how… These tents are so simple and idiot proof.. well, I guess not drunk proof.. lol.
These things operate on a simple tension system, a X of poles, anchored at the outer corners of each wall, and the roof, a pivoting hub in the center attached to the wall. The X is a few inches bigger than the dimensions of the wall, so when you snap it out rigid it bows the wall out against the pressure, and it pops into place and stays under the tension. Super slick and easy.
He managed to snap off two of the poles from one hub, snapped right at the end, flush with the metal pivot ends that fit in the hub.
My buddy doesn’t ice fish(yeah, a weirdo, I know…), so he gave me the tent. I just got around to going and getting it from him a week ago yesterday.
New poles I found are $10 each plus shipping. They’re 49.5″ long, I hate to think what shipping to AK was going to be. But I figured there had to be an easy fix.
My buddy thought PVC pipe over the breaks. I can’t remember seeing PVC that small. (3/8″ ID for the pole, 1/2″ ID for the end fitting.)
And I was hoping to not buy anything 😉
I took it apart and took the end pieces out, headed to the shop.
I had a plan, would just make a sleeve to join them, set screws to hold them in, long over the pole side for support against it torquing out, or snapping again.
Didn’t have any aluminum big enough dia, that wasn’t 2″ Dia, so I used a scrap of bead stock brass. Ended up 5″ each sleeve, bored through at 0.375″ and counter bored on one end at 0.5″. Cross drilled, and tapped 6-32 for some brass screws I had. Cross drilled through the end fittings (aluminium), and ran the screws through instead of just against them.
When you break a fiberglass rod, as you know if you have ever broken a ski pole or tent pole, it “blooms” on the end, sort of a spreading, or swelling to larger dia.
That made it perfect, I fed the fittings over from the opposite end, and it formed a press fit over the expanded area, I had to drive them on, down to the right length to end at 49.5″. Perfect!
First assembly I had the end of the sleeve too close to the cross pin the ends pivot on in the hub, it wouldn’t fold. Went back and trimmedthem down a touch, now they’re fine.
Sorry, only took pics after it was back together… In place, and in use;
That was a week ago today. I’d been needling another buddy about going fishing some time soon on that Sunday. Day after I fixed this he sent me a message, lake name and date. 😀 This last Saturday.
So, we’ll before first light we loaded up andheaded out;
Two hour drive to the lake, short hike across the lake, we’re set up just after dawn. 3.5 hours of fun later; (yeah, so much fun I never stopped to take pics!)
Little silver salmon. (Stocked lake). We had hoped on some big lake trout or pike that are usually easy in this lake, but they weren’t biting. I ain’t complaining! It was still great!
I came home 1 short of the daily limit! I’d caught 6, but put 1 back. Another guy caught 5 or 6 he kept. The other guy got 4 that he kept, but has a freezer full of salmon, so he let me have them. Had lots more bites we missed, and some that got off half way up etc.. Good times!
We didn’t freeze either, and actually fished comfortably outside the tent, only setting it up with the buddy heater to wam up once. 5F with a 5 to 10 mph wind. Dreamy weather for a first trip of the season. (Always a bitch to acclimate yourself to the ice, wind, andfishing at -20F for the first trip out! 😉 )
I gotta say that little Victorianox paring knife is THE sweetest fish cleaning knife I’ve ever had. Thin narrow Wicked laser sharp blade, and a great grippy handle. Love it!
Back in mid May, I bought a cheap Chinese mechanical pocket watch. To be used as a movement donor, to fix one of my favorite quartz pocket watches that has bit the dust. The quartz watch is special because it was one my Dad bought me.
I spent two days on ebay searching the watches for a dial/face I liked, that was easy to read… Many mechanical watches have an unreadable color scheme, or too much skeletonizing to be readable.
I do like the dial in the quartz watch, but this process is a LOT easier if I don’t have to change the dial/hands between the movements. Or even remove them from the movements!
The project got shelved at the time. Then I realized how much I like the watch itself… The case is a little lightweight (cheap-ish) but it was nice enough, and went into rotation. Making it harder to canibalize for the other one.
Every time I though of it, I put it off for various reasons.
Anyway. Today I was swapping watch chains around so I could carry my other mechanical pocket watch, and saw the quartz one on the shelf. Thought, gee wouldn’t it be nice to carry that one. And thinking how long it’s been since I carried the newer mechanical one…
I thought oh why not, and took them apart right then.
I always figured this would be a case of the mechanism not fitting, or the dial, or spacing ring etc, and turn out to be a real hassle to figure out.
At this point I did think that if nothing else, if it all went in ok, but the spacer ring didn’t fit, I could build a mount ring, or spacers with Sugru.
Pulled the back covers first.
Measured the case diameters inside, quartz was 0.06″ smaller… PFFT! close enough!
Pull plastic spacer rings, screw the crowns off (I need to find finer pliers for the next time, Victorinox Spirit tips were a bit big but worked great– you have to hold the inner shaft on the mech, and turn the crown off of it.)
The mechanical dial was a touch smaller than the quartz one, but did fit ok.
The mech. watches plastic ring fit the quartz case well enough, just had to whittle off some spacer nubs on its edge..
Room enough that the back plate went on too.
Hands cleared the front glass.
The mechanical movement is thicker. By a few thousandths. So the stem shaft wouldn’t line up with the hole in the case/spring. At least, not with out offsetting the dial in the case and binding the hands, and the crowns use..
I got that figured out with firm placement of the dial in place, and flexing/slightly bending the stem rod to line up, then starting the threads. Once started and seated it simply flexed the shafts where it needed it.
Unfortunately…. (saw this coming, didn’t you?)
In the process, I was handling a bare unprotected mechanical movement. That was running slightly… Somewhere I stopped it wrong, or pressed wrong, or tweaked something… Ended up with a fine loop double up in the main spring/balance spring.
Even if I could take it apart (oi.) I doubt I could straighten out the spring and make it work. And I’d probably never get it back together right.
So, at that point I had a half installed broken movement.
I went ahead and finished the install, trimming the the plastic ring, etc.
It all fits and would work great. If it still worked. Lol.
So now I just need to order another of those watches to canibalize… A little more careful this time.
Thankfully I’m only out about $12 on the broken one. It’ll still only be a $24 conversion! 😀
Only took three pics of the whole process, will take more the next time.
Mechanical spacer ring in quartz case;
The spring after I was done trying to push the loop out… Yeah. 😦
First time I’ve ever UN hot wired a vehicle! 😉
Back story is as follows; A buddy had his ATV stolen out of his yard in May. Insurance payed off and he got a new one… 3 weeks later, the troopers said “hey, we got your wheeler back”.
He’s run out of time for projects this summer, but would like to sell it to cover the difference between the cost of the new one and the insurance paid.
So, I’m putting it back together and selling it for him.
If it was a horse I’d say rode hard, put up wet… They didn’t baby it, but I wouldn’t say they thrashed it.
Needs a few things cleaned up, and put back together since they had started to strip it.
First up was fixing the hacked hot wire job. Then test ridding to make sure they didn’t screw the driveline etc.. It all works great!
Wiring like this isn’t too hard when you have a full wiring diagram to start with (free download of full factory service manual!)
And, your supplied with a new switch, and the proper plug for it. Got wire extension colors close on a couple…
Scrounged and shortened the harness wires for an aftermarket switch pod I’d bought for mine.
The harness wires to the switch had been cut so short I had to add something, but having them all one color would be a pain.
The next guy is going to wonder what the heck, but at least he won’t be fighting to track a wire in a bundle of all red or all black wires..
Couple days work on a few little cosmetic details and rewiring a winch, and then you should see it on Craigslist Fairbanks. 🙂
The previous parts of this saga, were;
The clutch going out.
A weight bushing and shaft worn, and a broken weight roller on the spider, jamming between weight and roller, late last fall.
Parked it for the winter.
Then this spring, I decided that if I took out the pivot shafycfir the weight, and that the weight couldn’t come out without disassembly of the clutch, it wouldn’t bind and jam, and should work on 3 weights.
Which it did, flawlessly.
For about 3 months.
Then it managed to get the magic amount of rpm, clearance, and weight orientation to throw the weight. About 3.5 weeks ago.
Turned out at that point, that when still “floating” in the clutch, even though the weight wasn’t helping engage the clutch, that it’s trapped weight/mass was balancing the clutch!
Horrendous vibration ensued, causing engine over heating, a high pitched hum, and increasing belt slipage. And eventually would no doubt eat engine bearings…
I rode it some for work around the homestead, but I’m the clutch slippage was getting worse every time I ran it.
So… part 4.
I decided to replace the weight shaft, and bushing, making both myself to save cost.
To add back the weight, but held in this time as intended to be, and eliminate the play that allowed it to bind up. The broken roller on the spider could wait a little while.
Being lazy won out over being broke. Twice. First time about 3 weeks ago, I was going to lathe turn a new pivot shaft.
Was easier to buy a new one.
This time I was going to make the bushing for the weight … Never had the time or drive to do it for over a week.
Found a atv/cycle parts place with amazingly reasonable shipping rates to Alaska (bikebandit.com).
Few days later I have shiny little parts!
Got 4 since everything online says you’ll crush a couple learning to press them in.
I used a new bushing over the old shaft, slid through the old bushing/weight, nut on top to act as a stop, and drove the old one out while seating the new one…
Slight bur created on end of new one trimmed out with a drill bit by hand. Took 5 min total, if that. And I have 3 bushings left!
If nothing else I have the bushings to later do the other 3 weights.
Then came instalation in the clutch.
REALLY wanted to do this without pulling the clutch off the engine. I bought a puller last winter, but there are a lot of horror stories about broken clutch pullers, and having to then cut the clutch up to get it off. If you got a cheap puller. I did get a cheap, but not the cheapest puller…
Couldn’t compress the clutch into the belt loop (as it does when the clutch is working, to open the area around the weight) as I had hoped I could, with clamps.
Suddenly realized I could enlarge that belt loop, and clearance in it, by letting the belt tighten on the secondary clutch!
Pry open secondary clutch, pull belt foreward, press primary clutch half inward, hold in place with clamp, insert weight, drive in new shaft(light press fit in clutch), install nuts, tighten.
Voila! That was amazingly easy. Not sure why, but God sure does like me!
plugged in the belt safety switch in the cover, wired the cover to the rack as high as possible, kept my leg out of the clutches for a short test ride in the yard (don’t try this at home kids).
NO MORE VIBRATION! Works like a DREAM!! Took less than an hour total! $50 max total spent, used a whopping $11 in parts!
If I’d known that could go that easy, I’d have gotten the parts and done it months ago!
Bolted cover on and rode it 10 miles; perfect! No vibration, no high pitch buzz, no belt slip, no motor over heating, good clutch engagement!!
Back to the way it was last year(yikes, hard to believe its been 10 months it first messed up!) before any of the clutch issues!!
Now, technically I still need to replace the clutch center spider, that houses the (broken)roller that the weight runs on.
But given how little wear there is on the weight compared to the rest of the worn parts, I think it is causing very little damage, very slowly.
I’m pretty sure it can wait a month or two of reasonable riding, for me to save the funds to get the spider, and build the tools needed to disassemble the clutch to change it.
I will also be periodically checking on the play in that weight on the shaft–
(and, as a side point it’s now the tightest of all four… the other 4 bushings could use done within a couple years m, I’m sure.)
–because, there is a section where the wear had eaten into the weight, that the new bushing is unsupported.
Probably be fine for a long time, but I’ll check it from time to time just to be sure.
Might just weld up that spot when I have it apart to do the spider. Or spring for a new weight. But unless it starts to bind again, I can’t see this causing any wear being a problem, for a while anyway.
I’ve also decided that even though it still looks great, this couldn’t have been good for the belt, and I gave no idea how old it is anyway. I’ll put a new belt on it as soon as I can afford it. Hopefully when I replace the clutch spider; Since the clutch has to come off to change the belt (what idiot thought that up??!?), and I’d like to minimize times I have to do that…