Gunsmithing

Glass on the 30-06…. Again..

put a scope on my Remington 700 again, something I swore I’d never do.
Last time it wore glass was fall of ’15. I’d put a scope my buddy Swany gave me, on it just the fall before… Great gift, great scope, fit the gun well, worked fine etc. Theres a post on that Somewhere on this blog..
I just discovered that I Hate the feel of a rifle with a scope, and the added hassle of taking care of it.. Not that I throw a rifle around anyway, but can be Much less careful without a scope on them, and the balance and weight and area to grab it is so much better!

Back story being the rifle always had a 3-9×32(Navajo Rhino, yes thats a scope brand/model! that was put on it when it was new in ’67) on it as long as Dad had it, but the adjustments broke on me in ’13 and I ran it in just its iron sights that year and loved it. Went back to a scope basically out of assumed habit that time. It took exactly 2 hunting trips, 1 year for me to decide No, and I went to a peep sight and fiber optic front, since all my hunting was moose, low land, and sub 100 yards.

But at this point for the hunting I’m really enjoying, high country alpine tundra, and caribou, its harder without a scope, its simply long range hunting at probably moving targets.. Too steep of a curve with even a good peep sight, for me anyway. At this point.

SO, once again, scope is a gift from a hunting buddy, its been on his 30-06(a sporterized vintage 100 year old Enfield!) for at least 20 years.. He retired the rifle last fall and offered me the scope knowing I wanted to try one again for our high country hunts.

The one Swany gave me was a 3-9×40, older production Tasco World Class. Great scope, but bulky, and it now lives on my Marlin model 60 .22
This one is a Simmons, 3-9×32, much less bulky, still old enough to be well built, and been surviving on an ’06 in Alaska for decades, I (should) will know not to worry about it.

Putting it on now since I have to go do a range trip to check sight in anyway before the bear trip, and figure what the hell, can’t hurt. Ironically the longest ranges for bear this trip will probable be 100 or 150 yards at the extreme max. Even with the scope on and max point blank of my load being around 320 yards, I probably wont let myself shoot past 150 to 200 extreme max anyway… But we’ll see.

I have a terrible feeling I’m going to hate it again, but trying to give it a fair chance.

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Thankfully rings and bases I had for the Tasco work for this. Want to say its Leupold rings on,,, Can[t remenber the bases. Been a while… lol. Had to steal the screws from a new set of Weaver rails, couldn’t find the ones for these bases, must have stole them for something else.

Yes it seems to sit well back… SO did the Tasco. I actually need it back a touch more for perfect eye relief, with the recoil pad I have on… But its good enough. If I REALLY like this, I’ll cut the stock and re-mount the recoil pad at a good LOP for me and fix it… Should probably do that anyway its a touch long regaurdless of the sights, but not as a problem.

One nice thing, the peep sight base is fully side mounted, so I’m leaving it. Its also index marked, and the rest of it as an insert is locked, and marked, as is the front sight… IE it can drop in and I’ll know if anything is off. I think the allen wrench for the rings and a screwdriver are going Everywhere with the gun, with the rest of the peep sight, if I ever need to swap back.

Categories: Guns, Hunting, Gunsmithing, Backcountry, Field gear, Rifles, Shooting, Traditional, Scopes and Sights

Un re-chambering a Winchester model 90

A bit of history;

This gun was, somewhat obviously, designed in 1890. For a while they were the model 1890, then they became the model 90. Originally chambered for .22L, .22Short and later the .22LR, and then .22 WRF.

They are THE original gallery guns, made famous in shooting galleries and fairs.

This one was made in 1932, and chambered in .22WRF

.22WRF was(is) a higher powered .22, more oomph than a .22 long or long rifle.

Later, the .22 WMR, know usually as .22 Mag was introduced. Very simply it is a WRF that’s been lengthened to hold more powder. Same as the way we got .357 Magnum from .38 Special.

Being bigger, it was more powerful. And popular. It in fact became so popular that the. 22 WRF became obsolete, after a while no longer chambered, and then ammunition stopped being made.

Around that time this gun was modified, to chamber, feed, and fire, the longer .22 WMR.

The only difference in all of these guns for different cartridges, is obviously the barrels chamber, and, as I found out, the carrier.

I had figured that since the shorter round would chamber, (like a 38 in a 357 chamber, the length difference is no problem at all) it would cycle the shorter rounds, and I could fire either round. Much the same as other .22 rifles that will cycle and fire .22 short, long and long rifle.

But “why?” I hear you ask, if the ammo isn’t made?

Well, actually Now, the ammo is made! Its been brought back, from popular demand, so that the older guns can be used!

And I’m glad for it! .22 WMR is a fine round for varmints, and predators. But I hunt neither, and its far too expensive for range/target use. Its too powerful for small game hunting, destroying far too much meat, in a messy fashion.

The .22 WRF on the other hand is light enough for small game hunting, but still a little more oomph than the common .22LR, for range, and bigger animals. Basically its a half step between .22LR and .22WMR.

Now, its not exactly cheap being a specialty ammo, but its about the same cost as most .22 WMR.

Still a little spendy for plinking wabbits, but then again, hunting with a 84 year old pump action is worth it!

Back to my problem;

The carrier is of a controlled feed design, meaning it fully controls the cartridge for its entire journey from magazine to chamber.

This is good, because it allows the gun to function in Any position. Even upside down! Try to do that with most bolt actions, or lever actions. 😉

This is also bad, in our case because it makes the carier a much more exact fir to thr round it carries.

To do so, the cartridge doesn’t just sit on top of the carrier as in a lot of designs, but sits surounded by it. Thus the carrier has to have a channel for the cartridge that is the exact length.

This is important, because, as I found out, how far the round goes into the carrier determines if the next round leaves the magazine. The tip of the round is the cartridge stop while the carrier is down. After if starts up, another part holds the next round.

Whoever converted this gun, deepened the chamber in the barrel, And deepened the channel in the carrier.

Here is a .22 WMR, in this guns carrier.

Here is what happens if you load it with the shorter .22 WRF;

With one round already inside the carrier, what you’r seeing is thd next round un line, partially into the carrier, partially inside the magazine.

And at that poing the gun jams, since that second round holds the carrier from lifting.

Here it is from another view;

Its not a big difference in length, but its enough to cause a jam. WMR on top, WRF below.

So, what we need, is either the cartridge to be longer, so it holds the next round out of the carrier, or the carrier channel to be shallower, providing the same effect.

Here is the shorter WRF inserted just far enough to sit its tip where a WMR tip would be, to hold the next round foreward.

So, our solution, is this part here;

Shown with its retaining set screw.

Like most firearms modifications or repairs, it’s a very small, very simple part, and (relatively) easy to make.

Just needing made to Exacting specifications, thus it’s a deceptively simple little chunk of brass.

It was simple to make, but it wasn’t exactly “easy”. Nor was it quick to make or fit.

Here it is installed, and with its set screw hole drilled and tapped in the carrier itself.

And here you can see its very simple function; It holds the cartridge foreward to where the tip needs to sit, where a WMR tip would be, to keep the next round from feeding, and causing our jam. Simple!

It’s brass because its a low to zero wear part, and it’s an easy material to fit/work with. I could have used steel and heat treated it for wear, but its just not necessary, in my opinion.

It has a “C” shape, to allow a channel for the extractor to pass through, which is what pushes the cartridge forward for chambering. Matching the channel in the carrier itself.

And it works flawlessly! The gun now chambers and fires WRF ammunition again. The only thing I lost was the abillity to Also use WMR ammo. Its still a single cartridge gun. Snall loss, as I’ve explained, I have no real use for WMR.

Overall this was one of my simplest gun fixes. It was interesting to figure out, and tedious to make/fit the part, but was really rather simple, and very fun. Some fixes similar to this have required several days of welding up new steel onto a carrier or bolt, and grinding/filing/refitting it down to size, repeatedly, until it works.

Categories: 22 ammunition, 22 guns, A.I.O., Brass, Customized, Fabrication, Field gear, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Modifications, old tools, Repairs, Rifles, Rimfire, Shooting, Winchesters

Grip frame fun, 1.0? 

Killing time in the shop and tried the brass 1860 style grip frame(that I have for converting my Ruger Blackhawk) on my Beretta Stampede.  Rear frame fits good, but would need a filler at the bottom front, and the ears trimmed to the gun frame if it was to stay.   





Looks like the front strap, trigger guard holes line up close enough to go on, but the trigger slot in it is far too narrow.  Had the same issue on the Blackhawk. 

I might compare Ruger and Beretta triggers, and open the 1860 guard up to fit both, if I can. 

I’m actually not sure if this brass frame set will ever get onto the Ruger. I’ve grown rather fond of the grip on the Blackhawk as it is, with the nice wood grips I put on last spring. Much nicer and slimmer than the rubber that came on it. Not sure I really need the slimmer 1860 style on it now.   We shall see. 

One nice thing, IF I do mount it to the Stampede,  it has the same flat main spring style as the 1860, so little serious modification, if any would be needed. 

IE, it could still later be converted to the Ruger mainspring, etc. just as easily as ever. 
If nothing else, I can fit the backstrap to the Beretta,  leaving the guard alone to be fit to the Ruger later, and then simply get another back strap then. 

As I said, we shall see. Just thinking out loud, as it were, for the time being. 

Categories: Brass, Cowboy, Customized, Guns, Gunsmithing, Modifications, Revolvers

I *Think* it’s time to re-blue my 30-06 barrel.

At the least, some serious touch ups are needed.  Dragging it through the brush the last several years has taken its toll… Not to mention it turned 49 years old this summer, I’m sure some of these scratches were there before it was mine.

 But I do see a lot more after every season, some distinctively new this last week.. 

Especially on the underside. –Which makes sense; when the gun is shoulder slung, that part of the barrel meets the brush I push through as it goes over/around me.

And Yes, those are rust spots in the first pic, and on the muzzle… Found out the hard way that my Kolpin gun boot IV is NOT waterproof if left upside down..  

The butt end cover fits Over the main part of the case, but without a seal. So left upside down in the rain on the boat for 5 days, water runs into the cap… And then into the rest of the case when you pick it up.

 Dumped probably a quart of water out of it… Foam liner was basically soaked. Found this when loading the boat to come home  –no time to dry it.

–In defense of the case, it is designed to be solid mounted in a vehicle,  butt up, barrel down, cap up, “right side up”, so water couldn’t enter in this manner.  Ive been using it as a hard carry case off of a mount, Not what it was designed for.

About the only way you’d get water in it when mounted upright is full submersion… which its not designed for either..    Definitely operator error leaving it upside down in the rain a few days, Not a fault of the case or its design.

No other easy way to carry the rifle home though, to keep it out of the way anyway, and out of the rain. Had to put it in the wet case.  15 hours later when I got home, the rifle was pretty wet.. Wiped it down then, but it still managed to rust a few spots before I got it cleaned(couple days later).

Gave it a thorough WD-40 bath… Really slathered it on, whole action out of the stock, and the bore. Wiped down again. 

Then did a simple bore cleaning, solvent, brush, patches.. There is some somewhat heavy copper fouling in the bore, that  wouldn’t budge… Didnt want to scrub it THAT hard now, but if any of it was rust, I did brush it hard enough, I’m sure it would have come out.   Then oiled the snot out of it inside and out…

Did the 357 while I was at it… been meaning to clean and oil that gun for months, its spent a lot of time out in the weather this year, and it’s missing a lot more of its blueing. Actually amazes me that that gun never shows any rust inside or out..

Hate to admit it, but this is the cleanest they’ve both been for a couple years…

Honestly, I don’t clean guns often, if they shoot and function good, and ain’t rusting, all I do is oil from time to time.

  Do Need to get in a better habit though of post trip cleaning! At least for surface moisture/external dirt and grime if not full on scrubbing..

Categories: Adventures, ATV Accessories, Damages, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, old tools, Outdoors, Woods tools

Range day, August 12, 2017

Range day with a couple friends yesterday.

Very few pics, I didn’t take many, was having too much fun… 😉😆 Maybe more later, a friend took several,  if I can lay hands on them… (yes, you Weston!) 

Got to make sure of the sight in on my 30-06 for upcomming hunting seasons; still doing a 2.5″ ish group at 75 yards, peep sights, 3″ high with my hunting loads: good enough! .Also, played around with my 45colt Beretta Stampede; nice bullseye group at 75 yards! Like a 6″ group, but still, not bad for open fixed notch sights on a 3.5″ barrel, that I don’t shoot often!

 Played with a buddies Ruger Mini 14 223, (I REALLY need to finally get the 223 I’ve wanted for 5 years… such a nice light plinking round!)

And I was finally able to try some handloads I made for my 30-30 in late 2014. .30cal round ball loaded light, for small game. bunny busters I call them. Pretty accurate to 75 yards, with no sight change on the rifle, quieter than a .22lr too.  Only problem is you have to single feed them, they won’t feed into the mag tube. 

Got a couple rounds into the black(paper plate sized roughly) at 100 yards with the 30-30, also peep sighted… Been 3 or 4 years since I’ve shot that gun at all, nice to see how easy it was to get back close to where I was then(Used to make nice sub 2″ even 1″ groups at 110 yards with it… with the peep sight. 😎 )

The Remington model 25 has that new sight that you guys might recall I put on over a year ago. Finally got to try sighting it in.

Couldn’t get on paper at 50 yards, always low, even after coming up a LOT on adjustments… Was running low on ammo and patience, then got side tracked. Will have to try another day and start closer…

This is what we call 36 mile range… It’s at the 36 mile marker on my road, about 12 miles into the Chen River recreation area.. (22 miles east of me on a windy 2 lane blacktop)

It’s just 3 benches and about 125 yards max aaaallll the way up the back slope… 100 yards max applicable use unless your really ambitious 😉

My stuff, the 25-20 out. Some of you will (should) recognized that scope laying there, it’s the one that was on my 30-06 since my Dad got it new in the 60s.

 The one that had the elevation adjustment break during sight in several years ago… About drove me nuts!  Took it off and used the irons that season, then after that my buddy Swany gave me a scope to use. 

(It’s a little funny, Swany had the other scope on a .22 he used for squirrel. I used it one season and then gave up on scopes all together for serious use, and I now have it on a .22 for small game. Came full circle! )

Anyway, I now use the busted scope as a monocle/spy glass I call it, for a spotting scope at the range. I’ve even worn it slung around my neck hunting instead of binos!  The 3-9 magnification and focus rings still work great.

My buddy’s stuff, S&W 44 mag, S&W 45 auto, Ruger Mini14.. Sorry, I can never remember the model #s on the S&Ws.. 

Categories: 25-20-rifle, Adventures, Alaska-Life, GetOutdoors, Good Friends, Good Times, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Outdoors, Summertime

Blackhawk grips part 4.0

4th installment for this, first was leather grips, which I need to finish, second was a great block of birch burl, third the 1860 conversion. 
So.. I figured in the mean time, till I can find another 1860 grip frame set, I thought I should at least put some stock grips(came with oversize pachmyre presentation grips) on the stock grip frame and shoot it that way at least Once before changing it 😉 
 

I started to make a set of grips 6 months ago, and have the piece for wood grips, but haven’t had either a warm shop or the drive/desire to work on them when I have the time to work on anything… So I bought some “cheap”(in price, not quality) cherry wood grips from a guy called LS Grips , that I found on ebay. 

$38(shipped cost) is horrendous for something I can make myself in a couple hours… But then, I haven’t had a couple hours where I could do it.. lol,

 AND it really, really is a steal for after market wood Blackhawk grips.  

Will need some fine fitting in a couple spots. And they are unfinished, I’ll have to clear coat them but thery’re a 99% perfect fit. 

Guy does good work! If your in need of some simple, but well made grips , give the guy a look. (He had maple, and walnut too, and other composites, and for most of the Ruger grip sizes.)

They feel good! MUCH better than the bigger rubber it had on it, nice and slim. 

 

Not quite as comfy as the 1860, but it’s really close. Will see how it shoots.  I can always thin them out some if I need to. (Gonna shoot it as is before applying a finish for that reason– and I don’t want to wait for a finish to dry.. lol) 

Categories: Guns, Gunsmithing, New Gear, Woods tools, Woodwork

Grip tinkering.

Pietta 1860 navy grip frame test fit on a Ruger Blackhawk. 😎  Saw someone else do a 1860 grip on a Blackhawk, but wasn’t sure if my cap and ball revolver was true 1860 spec. Looks like it is. 

Backstrap is a great fit. 

 Trigger guard would need the front hole filled and mover about 3/8″, and the slot for the trigger widened.  
Then of course the back strap would need supports for the Ruger style mainspring and trigger spring fabricated and installed.    

Honestly probably take me less than an afternoon to do the full conversion.  ðŸ™‚

Why would I want to? 

Because I have small hands and this grip is a a different profile, it’s a Lot more comfortable.

 Also, I want to eventually strip and brown this gun, and the brass would look Sweet!   And I like to tinker…. Can’t seem to leave Anything stock. Lol. 

Now all I gotta do is snag another 1860 grip frame set online (not using these since I’m not giving up the use of my Pietta!)

Categories: Brass, Custom, Fabrication, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, old tools, Theory/Thoughts

Amazing!

What you can look at everyday and never see!
Been looking at buying some burl wood chunks for a project. But really hoping to find some Alaskan wood in the process, with no luck. 

Then I suddenly realized one of my Dad’s old clocks that doesn’t work anymore, hanging in the livingroom… I knew it was a burl but it’s been there for 20 years, broke for 10+ so I never “see” it or think of it.  

Figure what the heck, I’ll cut it up, save some $$. Got it down and find it marked birdseye birch from Kenai!!! 😮 PERFECT!! I’d never even heard of birch with that burl pattern either! Turns out to be SUPER rare. 

Categories: Adventure Metal Works, Alaska-Life, carving, Gunsmithing, wood processing, Woodwork

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