So…. is it bad that I had it 3 days, carrying it 2 days, and already modded it? Lol..
But then, I knew I would when I bought it. my usual, favorite blade preferences, applied to my favorite blade arrangement. (Yeah, you should have seen this coming when I first posted the knife!)
Clip into sheeps foot, clipped shorter and narrowed, then re-edged. Also dropped the kick, to sit lower in the frame when closed, as far as I could.
The spey I made into a clip/skinner, taking some of the swedge out, and removing the raised tip.
With its bigger cousin, the same mods on a Case Muskrat. The moose isn’t actually any narrower, and its thicker. But is shorter.
Its enough of a difference though, its smaller in pocket, which was what I was after in a mini muskrat/moose frame. But it still grips nice in hand, a great bonus.
Posted about my re-modification, and realized I hadn’t really shown all of the rifle. So here we go! 🙂
Its not without issues, but overall a pretty clean gun. Serial # dates it to 1932.
Needs a finish job, as you can see its “in the white”, it was professionally stripped at some point, It’s mostly bare metal. Probably should be blued. I’d really love to have it cerakoted a bright blue though. Maybe someday.
Came with the tape on it. The front tape holds the mag hanger, some yutz tried to drift it out, didn’t know they turn into place. The stock tape is apparently for grip, I had it off, the wood and tang are fine. I put if back because I didn’t have time to deal with stripping the glue residue at the time.
As mentioned elsewhere, it’s actually been re-chambered to, and the carrier modded to feed .22WMR, back when .22 WRF was obsolete. Since I can get it now, and since Mag is so hard on small game I re-modded the carrier so I can now shoot WRFs again.
She ain’t perfect, but she’s a fun shooter, I thoroughly enjoy it!
New knife came Monday!
Been wanting a Case Mini Muskrat, to do my prefered blades mod to, for a while.
But the things are discontinued, and Spendy when they pop up. Or cheap at auction and I miss them/get snipped… lol I never was a good bidder. On top of which, no other manufacturer makes one in that size right now. Those other discontinued models from the rest being older and harder to find than the Case too.
Enter Cases’ Mini Moose. Something I’ve been trying to buy for several months, always coming up with something else to do instead… (most recently the LCP2 shown a few days ago.)
So, I’d put off buying a mini moose for a fancy damascus stockman… which I put off to get the gun. But I still had a “I want a knife” itch… Just no knife budget.
Enter my old favorites in low cost high quality: Rough Rider. Imported, but Nice.
So, I was browsing RRs, and suddenly hit on a moose, that looks ldentical to all the ones they have out now that are regular sized (4.5″), but the nail nicks were much bigger on the blades! Look at the details, and Hey! A mini moose @ 3.5″!
They call it a small moose.
A little digging found them in 3 different, recent handle materials/runs.
None of the materials really looked good to me, I went with the least unattractive one.
Turned out to be great, its kinda a amber carved apaloosa stag…
Appaloosa is a bone look that Case and a few others have done, mottled and spotted like horses of the same name. Its always seemed that I’m unique among most trad knife lovers, I prefer dye jobs that are faded, mottled or un even, even where theyre supposedly supposed to be a solid color. Its more natural and has character. Thus, I really love the look on this knife!
But yeah… shut up and show pics. Right.
For scale, a Victorianox apprentice, and a Case peanut.
Great clip blade, and a really sexy curvy spey.
And how deep that spey sits closed is great!
Since I’ll most likely be using the other blade the most. 🙂
A friend on an EDC forum asked me an interesting question today;
Hey AK-A, You’ve had that Victorinox Swiss Tool Spirit for quite some time.
Which three of its tools have you used the most? TIA
It’s funny that he should ask me that; A couple nights before when putting things up for the night, I was looking at it and thinking about what I use and don’t use.
My answer is as follows;
Top 2 are easy, pliers, phillips driver, in that order.
But I had to add a footnote, that I’m not sure that #2 counts as Vic specific since I hated the Vic driver. I cut it off and welded a Leatherman flat style 1/4″ bit holder onto it several years ago. 🙂
#3 is hard to tell what I use more, but I *think* its the large flat head driver/bottle opener as leverage/a pry bar.
Honorable mention/#4, #5 goes to the other two that tied with that big driver, the awl and the wire cutters.
Use the awl as a pick, scraper, small pry tool a lot. And the wire cutters get alot of use when I’m running the wire feed welder.
Honestly, out of those last three its really, really, really hard to tell what I use more.
I can tell you what I Never use; the knife blade.
I started out hating the style(which is ironically now my favorite to use on any other knife, a sheepsfoot), and now I just prefer the ergonomics of a dedicated pocket knife.
Rarely, almost never used, is the chisel/scraper. Like maybe 15 times in the ~12 years I’ve had the tool.
That thing I’d probably use more if I remembered it was there… for some reason, maybe because I carried a Leatherman for so long and they don’t have one, I never think of it being there.
I tend to see it when opening another tool and think “dang that woulda been handy 10 minutes ago…”
I’ve only had it about 1.5 weeks, not a lot of carry yet, so I really have no need for anything different than the pocket holster, yet.
But I’m sure a time will come when I want to belt carry it, so why not go ahead and make ond of my holsters for it?
No construction pics this time. Its the same as my last two, the first for the Bersa, then one for my Bearcat(Both can be found on the blog), this one is just scaled down slightly for the LCP.
I lost a little of my preferred forward “FBI” cant, but its still fine. Small notch to clear the mag release; This way it could get pushed, but I was more woried about it being pushed with the leather over it. This way its shielded/flush with the leather.
No retention strap yet. Its a VERY tight fit right now, plenty of hold. After it breaks in and stretches some, I’ll look at adding a strap, that way the fit and length will be right.
With its inspiration, the first of them, made for the Bersa. Thatcone is beoke in, but still snug, and still works great after 3 or 4 years.(Edit; I got curious and had to check. 6 years! Made in august of 2013!)
Honestly, the LCP2 actually fit the Bersa holster rather well. It would have worked, except the strap length.
Buf it was a touch too deep, I’d end up bending up the lower tip of the holster in use, and the long strap would be annoying.
With my previous CCW, a Bersa/Firestorm. 380.
Impulse but not a blind buy. As I mentioned, I got to shoot one before. A friend at church has and carries a first gen LCP, and I’d asked if he could bring it to a mens shooting weekend we had in the spring. He forgot, but someone else there had a LCP2 and I got a couple mags through it.
Great shooter, light, compact! Just what I’d been looking for. My Bersa 380 gets a little big sometimes.
I swear the Bersa gets heavier after you have it on for 8 hours straight!
I wanted something smaller, lighter, and pocketable so I could tuck a shirt, or do away with a cover shirt/jacket if I wanted to.
The Bersa I’ve had for over a decade(wow… closer to 15 years I think..).
The Ruger weighs Literally half as much (unloaded specs), is smaller, thinner. But at only a single round loss! Shoots good to boot, with amazingly controlable recoil for its weight.
But anyway, back to the range; I was Extremely happy to be hitting within 2″or 3″ of a clay pigeons at 20 or 25 yards, some rounds hitting them, within my 2nd mag! Those sights aint much but they’re really actually pretty good! The ergonomics and fantastic trigger help, it shoots like a much bigger pistol.
It comes with a light but very nice pocket holster, that works really well. It adds some bulk to pocketing it, but with no safety other than the center trigger bar, you REALLY dont want anything getting into that trigger guard with it in your pocket!
Covering the trigger/guard etc is the best, and also having Nothing else in the pocket with it.
So far the holster is nice, light, comfortable, and provides a great draw. Even including reaching into my pocket, this is a smoother, simpler, easier draw than I’ve ever had with non pocket guns!
Here it is in the pocket holster, on top of my homemade Bersa holster.
It does actually fit in the Bersa holster too, and rather well. Just a bit short, and of course the retention strap is far too long. I might use it as a pattern to make one for the Ruger.
Serriously considering just adding belt loops to the pocket holster though. Would be simple to do, and would make it a dual use holster.
Its not like I carry every day anyway. Its hit or miss for me, and I can alternate as needed, or not. Options are great to have, no matter how often you use them!
For a last fun comparison, here is my pocket .22. 6 rounds of .22 Short. The lcp is smaller, thinner and LIGHTER!
A bit of history;
This gun was, somewhat obviously, designed in 1890. For a while they were the model 1890, then they became the model 90. Originally chambered for .22L, .22Short and later the .22LR, and then .22 WRF.
They are THE original gallery guns, made famous in shooting galleries and fairs.
This one was made in 1932, and chambered in .22WRF
.22WRF was(is) a higher powered .22, more oomph than a .22 long or long rifle.
Later, the .22 WMR, know usually as .22 Mag was introduced. Very simply it is a WRF that’s been lengthened to hold more powder. Same as the way we got .357 Magnum from .38 Special.
Being bigger, it was more powerful. And popular. It in fact became so popular that the. 22 WRF became obsolete, after a while no longer chambered, and then ammunition stopped being made.
Around that time this gun was modified, to chamber, feed, and fire, the longer .22 WMR.
The only difference in all of these guns for different cartridges, is obviously the barrels chamber, and, as I found out, the carrier.
I had figured that since the shorter round would chamber, (like a 38 in a 357 chamber, the length difference is no problem at all) it would cycle the shorter rounds, and I could fire either round. Much the same as other .22 rifles that will cycle and fire .22 short, long and long rifle.
But “why?” I hear you ask, if the ammo isn’t made?
Well, actually Now, the ammo is made! Its been brought back, from popular demand, so that the older guns can be used!
And I’m glad for it! .22 WMR is a fine round for varmints, and predators. But I hunt neither, and its far too expensive for range/target use. Its too powerful for small game hunting, destroying far too much meat, in a messy fashion.
The .22 WRF on the other hand is light enough for small game hunting, but still a little more oomph than the common .22LR, for range, and bigger animals. Basically its a half step between .22LR and .22WMR.
Now, its not exactly cheap being a specialty ammo, but its about the same cost as most .22 WMR.
Still a little spendy for plinking wabbits, but then again, hunting with a 84 year old pump action is worth it!
Back to my problem;
The carrier is of a controlled feed design, meaning it fully controls the cartridge for its entire journey from magazine to chamber.
This is good, because it allows the gun to function in Any position. Even upside down! Try to do that with most bolt actions, or lever actions. 😉
This is also bad, in our case because it makes the carier a much more exact fir to thr round it carries.
To do so, the cartridge doesn’t just sit on top of the carrier as in a lot of designs, but sits surounded by it. Thus the carrier has to have a channel for the cartridge that is the exact length.
This is important, because, as I found out, how far the round goes into the carrier determines if the next round leaves the magazine. The tip of the round is the cartridge stop while the carrier is down. After if starts up, another part holds the next round.
Whoever converted this gun, deepened the chamber in the barrel, And deepened the channel in the carrier.
Here is a .22 WMR, in this guns carrier.
Here is what happens if you load it with the shorter .22 WRF;
With one round already inside the carrier, what you’r seeing is thd next round un line, partially into the carrier, partially inside the magazine.
And at that poing the gun jams, since that second round holds the carrier from lifting.
Here it is from another view;
Its not a big difference in length, but its enough to cause a jam. WMR on top, WRF below.
So, what we need, is either the cartridge to be longer, so it holds the next round out of the carrier, or the carrier channel to be shallower, providing the same effect.
Here is the shorter WRF inserted just far enough to sit its tip where a WMR tip would be, to hold the next round foreward.
So, our solution, is this part here;
Shown with its retaining set screw.
Like most firearms modifications or repairs, it’s a very small, very simple part, and (relatively) easy to make.
Just needing made to Exacting specifications, thus it’s a deceptively simple little chunk of brass.
It was simple to make, but it wasn’t exactly “easy”. Nor was it quick to make or fit.
Here it is installed, and with its set screw hole drilled and tapped in the carrier itself.
And here you can see its very simple function; It holds the cartridge foreward to where the tip needs to sit, where a WMR tip would be, to keep the next round from feeding, and causing our jam. Simple!
It’s brass because its a low to zero wear part, and it’s an easy material to fit/work with. I could have used steel and heat treated it for wear, but its just not necessary, in my opinion.
It has a “C” shape, to allow a channel for the extractor to pass through, which is what pushes the cartridge forward for chambering. Matching the channel in the carrier itself.
And it works flawlessly! The gun now chambers and fires WRF ammunition again. The only thing I lost was the abillity to Also use WMR ammo. Its still a single cartridge gun. Snall loss, as I’ve explained, I have no real use for WMR.
Overall this was one of my simplest gun fixes. It was interesting to figure out, and tedious to make/fit the part, but was really rather simple, and very fun. Some fixes similar to this have required several days of welding up new steel onto a carrier or bolt, and grinding/filing/refitting it down to size, repeatedly, until it works.