Wanted to build a little socket set for part of this kit to go with a 3/8″ impact driver. Needed a way to keep them all in their side of the box. Couple/three hours (not sure, 3 projects at once…) modeling and test prints for fit, 3 hours printing lid and support blocks, 1/2 hour assembly. Supports have captive magnets, and are screwed and (hot) glued in. Magnets press fit into the lid. Good and secure, can put the sockets in it and lift that side of the case! Can also put the sockets in it turn it over and shake the heck out of it, but not the sockets; lid stays put! OpenSCAD modeling, Cura slicer, Elegoo Neptune 2S printer. Hatchbox Blue and Silver PLA.
Had some bed adheashion issues, and layer adheashion issues, that resulted in the scars(once one layer is scarred it just continued upward with the scar till the top… It didn’t smooth over them. )Its clean enough for a functional print, IE not having to be purdy just solid. I don’t like it in principle, but in application I don’t mind it, it adds character.
This is the project that caused battery boxes in the previous post.
Realized one afternoon recently that I needed a within the day relaod for my pocket pistol; after having to shoot at a stray violent dog, I was left with only 3 rounds in my CCW for the rest of the day. Not that I needed to reload to actively shoot, but I needed a reload for any possible shooting later in the day. Something in between carrying a full box of ammo and a true reload in another magazine(which I’ve done in the past and never needed, and find a useless weight/cost). Came up with this, compact and easy for day bags, glove boxes or even jacket pockets.
Modeled on official cartridge specs, plus a few mm at the to for different brand lengths, and a 1mm inclusive diameter clearance, for easy slip in and out. I wanted them loose for ease of handling, don’t care that it rattles a bit. Scale it up a bit in x,y, I’m sure I could get 9mm into it just fine. Only 6 rounds for compactness, and my pistol only holds 6+1 anyway. If I ever think I need more, I’ll make one longer. 😉
This version is printed half in red Hatchbox PLA, and the lid in Sunlu PETG… Why? because the PETG is new to me(great Christmas present from @alaskalinuxuser )and I could.. 🙂
Again, this uses a trick I found on youtube, Negative Volume Printing, to print inner and outer contours as one line in vase mode, fast and easy. No infill, and a split side, but plenty sturdy enough for this task.
A great bonus to doing this, other than its just fun; 2nd maganzine; about $60 last I checked. This box; couple hours at the computer and about $0.50. 😀
The Files are again available at Printables, but honestly this is obsolete, unless you just want 6x 380 auto. GO look at the Barry Carriers instead, if you have access to OpenSCAD, the custom parameters (NO coding needed, its point and click!) you can make these for Any cartridge, and any count. (as long as it fits on your printer!) And yes, technically these will print outside of vase mode, if you want infill and some more structure.
Sooo… What do you do if you need fancy custom fit plastic parts but don’t have a 3D printer?
You dig out a glue gun and some dusty Lego plates!
Needed a hinged lid to close in one half of a Kobalt bit driver case. Voila;
Used a hinged bit holder insert that I didn’t need as the hinge, built up a riser and door, and a stop/latch block. Hot glued the riser/door to the hinge and the stop in the other end. Magnet and a stacked nut/washer for right height glued in for safety latch.
brown stripe because I couldn’t find another black 2×16.
Where it opens to/sits on its own.
where I can hold it open to;
This little recess here;
Fits this little latching nub on the other half off the case;
Now I have closed in socket storage;
Clears everything on the opposite side
Magnetic latch;
Latch might get a re-design.. Will see how it holds up.
More on the kit itself later. Its a companion setup for a specific power tool in a specific application. Need to finish figuring out what sockets I want in it, and collect them, along with a couple other drivers.
This kinda rough, and a bit of a redneck hack. But it works! And thats what counts to me. 🙂
Got this a couple/three weeks ago, cargo divider bar to keep gas and water cans in place in the truck. PITA to always be strapping them in. Looked at building something, but I didn’t have any viable scrap on hand and buying even electrical conduit or black water pipe and needed fittings cost more than this thing!
$25 @ Lowes. Easier to move it around than what I would have been able to build too. Adjustable from like 50″ to 72″
Did learn much to my amazement, that my bed inside width is wider than 72″. Hell, the outer width if the flatbed is only 72″, and I swore it was wider than a stock box. This box might actually be sprung an inch or so, but still…
But yeah, the feet on the ends have holles in them already, assumedly for what I did; screw them to 2×6 chunks. Little less grip than the rubber grippy feet, but it works fine so far.
There it is with my improvised sideways divider, to separate diesel and water jugs… A scrap stove pipe support bracket I brought home from work, already made up. Didn’t quite clear my 5th wheel hitch(gotta get rid of that soon) but if you flipped it around and sat it at a slight angle it worked for most arrangements.
Most…
I got tired of it not fitting all the cans I needed, separately, on the right sides… And it all still had to be strapped somewhere.
Went browsing online for parts ideas(Lowes app is a rube goldberg/macgyver designers dream for finding hardware! )
Between black steel pipe and SteelTek structural pipe, I figured I could make a couple L shaped dividers that would slide on the sucker, outer L sitting on the bed floor (2 because there are the two telescoping tube sizes on it) and lock in place with some set screw/knobs.
Thats sorta what I ended with..
I did buy a chunk of pipe, a couple pipe fittings, and one steeltek fitting… but my total for one divider was over $30…
On the way out of the store, I decided to hell with it and got another of the ratcheting dividers for $25, too.
I’d already found that the feet are just pinned on with a rivet(the pipe bottoms in the cup on the foot first, pressure is dirrect, not held by thd rivet/pin). I’d removed the feet and hair clipped/bolted them back on the first one. Easier to move around and be able to put it in trough the other frame without the 3m2x6 ends on it…
With the second one, I found that with the feet off, the inner pipe will slide out the back of the outer one…
So I got to measuing and cutting.
Liked the idea of an adjustable divider, I can put the main bar further forward and still use it… Would have liked to leave more length, but to get it to shorten enough to trap the cans, it left me with just about 30″ max. Thats with it cut to be a minimum length of 16″, 1″ over the 15″ gas cans…
The bigger bar OD is 1.25″, small inner one is a touch over 7/8″. Unfortunately Steeltek(and plumbing pipe) specs for 1.25″ are off… Its ID of their pipe. So all the fittings are much bigger!! And 3/4″ pipe OD is even bigger than 1.25″ OD, so i couldn’t just drop a size.
Could have used 3/4″ water fittings IF I drilled or machined the threads out, then the dia would work. Too freaking much work.
So yeah, the smaller pipe goes into the steeltek T, with about 3/8″ of play, but locked in with the set screw on the short one… the other two screws on the cross bar are snugged up, but so it can slide.
So, maybe $55 in actual used materials, got me one bar and one divider, that I can move on one side of the main bar. If I need the divider past center to the other side of the truck I can just flip the whole affair endo. If I need divider on both ends after all, I’ll think of something for a slider T then… maybe weld one up.. and cut down another ratchet bar, or use the water pipe I got… will find out at the time.
Ir bows the main bar out a little, with the ball pivots on the feet, and the center joint only being overlapped a couole inches lets it flex. Just have to remember to just snug the divider, not torque it in. The only real downside now is since its tightened against the tail gate, it drops every time you open the gate, and has to be re-ratcheted in place when you close it. Only mildly annoying. I might get another T and put a foot/leg under the end.. maybe.
Going to get a female/female coupler somehow, maybe find some pipe that will slip over the 7/8″ tube(maybe machine out a short chunk of 3/4″ steeltek pipe?) And I can butt joint the piece I cut off, back on at times… and use it as an extension, have a longer divider that way, with some adjustment still… will have to play with it.
Little post a few days ago mentioned getting this knife back into my travel kit. Goodthing I did! Its actually not been in the truck, but in my lunch/snack box. One day a little while ago, transfering gear to a friends truck to go shooting(target) I grabbed the snack box for a light lunch.
That meant that later I had a sharp single blade thats easier to clean than the twin blade I was pocket carying, when an impromptu bunny hunt came up..
Little fur ball kept getting curious about the sound or something andrunning out into the range (gravel pit) we were using.
He knew I’ve been wanting to rabbit hunt a while, so my buddy said go for it if I wanted. 3rd appearance of the critter, 2nd active stalk I managed to connect before he completely disappeared again.
Great knife for the task, thin point was easy to control, handle comfortable, good reach, and laser sharp.
Guy that was with me gave a couple ideas and left me to it, so I just basically taught myself to clean/skin a rabbit. He said I did great especially when he found out I’d never cleaned anything but fish before!
Was too hot and tired that night to do the grilling we’d planned, but roast bunny is on the menu soon. Will take pics!
Just a little thought from several weeks ago. Finally got this one back to its proper place, as snack knife in the truck. Its been my favorite for summer saidage and cheese for a few years now! That blade is like a laser. Case Stainless and Yellow Delrin 4.125″ Slimline single blade Trapper.