Damages

Multi Sheaths.Β 

In other news, the belt loop on the sheath I use for my Victorinox Spirit gave up the ghost about 1.5 weeks ago. 


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Thankfully not completely! It was started at one corner when I left yesterday morning, figured it’d be fine a day or two, since it’s been rough and loose at the stitches, and stretched but not torn for weeks (months probably ). 

Also Thankfully I didn’t lose it! Never ceases to amaze me, I dont deserve it but God continues to be very good to me!

And yes, that’s not a Vic sheath. It’s Leatherman! Made for the original Wave.(for those that don’t know, there have been two Wave models, the first slightly more compact model around 2000ish, the second bigger, and current one from around 2004.)


I never liked the Victorianox sheaths, leather but thick and clunky, and worst of all, velcro closure. Was looking for a sheath for my New Wave at the time I got this, turned out to not fit it. But after a couple months when I lost the Wave, and got the Vic, it got put to use. The Spirit always fit this sheath better than it did the one made for it! 

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It was new, old stock then, wish I’d thoughthe to grab another one… Be impossible to get another now, IF I ever really have to replace it. :(

That was late 2006 early 2007.. 11 or 12 years of almost(have carried the Vic probably 80% of that time)constant use ain’t bad! 

Will make a new loop and stitch it on this week. Might just stitch new loops bottom end to the old loop, so I don’t have to go to the hassle of curved glove needles and working inside the bottom of the sheath.. Gonna use 550 inner strands, or if I can find my roll of Gearward Kevlar string that a friend gifted me a couple years ago, I’ll use that.  

That sheath gets a lot of abuse where I wear it, ran into and against everything, laid on, scraped around on machinery and the ground. If nothing else, I want to try to garrantee the stitches hold!

I actually wrote this post above, about a week ago. Never got it posted.  I’ve also not gotten around to fixing the belt loop.   But I have been carrying the Spirit.  A couple days loose in a rear pocket, but that got old fast.  Dug around for my bag of misc. sheaths, and got out a slim nylon Leatherman version. 



Fits like a glove! A little tight upon re-holstering, but not bad. Yes it’s velcro closure, but it’s actually not been bad so far!  I don’t think I’d want to use it forever,  and I’ll still fix the leather one, but it works perfectly fine for now.  Big bonus is that it’s almost as slim and compact/unobtrusive as the leather one. 


Another bonus, was that it has the room in it to hold the Spirit with the pliers open/handles unfolded!  I must have unconsciously known this, because I suddenly found I’d been carrying it that way for a while during a job.  That can be very handy at times! 

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Categories: Daily-cary-log, Damages, EDC, EDC/MT use, Leather, Multitools, Repairs, Sheaths | 1 Comment

ATV plow, first use.Β 

Got 4″ of powder last Thursday night, finally enough to try out the ATV plow! 

I built the mount, and had it all ready in early October of 2016. But the night I finished it, and went to test ride with it mounted, is the night the clutch went out. I didn’t know what to do with the clutch until spring of 2017, so the wheeler and plow sat unused all winter. I never got to try the plow until this weekend!

SO, Anyway, I used the Prairie to plow my yard and driveway Friday. Works great!

One small section of drive plowed;

Took about the same amount of time as it does with my truck… Truck moves more in one pass, but takes more time to maneuver…

The wheeler is smaller, easier to turn and has better visibility. But not as much power or blade size to move a lot at once. 50/50-90 kinda thing.  I’ll break it up from now on, truck for large bulk areas, wheeler for the tight spaces, trimming up. 

Did have one problem. The plow doesn’t have an upward stop for lifting the blade… Just where you stop the winch. So if you go too far, it just keeps pulling. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if you have it all the way up or not. 

Broke some welds on the mount pulling it up too far.  Will need to re-weld that, and make some sort of positive stop that hits the bumper or something, so I can tell for sure when to stop the winch.. 

I’m thinking just a upward angled bar braced off the plow, that would hit the bumper, and be a solid stop I’d feel. Maybe have it high enough that I could see it… Something like that. 

Got the main mount piece with the breaks inside melting/drying out now, will get it done and back on in the morning,  so I can plow the new 2″ or 3″ tomorrow afternoon. 

I’m really not surprised it broke… I’m only semi professionally trained at welding, still not real good at it, and this was done with a rather light welder for steal this heavy… 

 And it was being torqued at this area by a 2000# winch, with about 3′ of leverage added… It simply tried to hinge on the welds and sheared them, and is now hinging/flexing others.

 Looks like I missed welding straight across the back edges too, which would be a lot of loss of strength against pull in this direction.. Whoops.  

I’m actually happy it broke where it did. This piece is a 2″ receiver hitch mount, that goes into a 2″ receiver tube mounted on the wheeler. Breaking at the female side on the wheeler would have been a Lot bigger of a pain to fix! 

And the plow itself hinges onto this piece. Breaking the plow side would have been worse too, mainly for being able to get it into my heated shop where the bigger welder is set up, and I’d probably have gad to do a lot more re-engineering if part of that broke.

All in all, if it was going to break, it’s the best area for it.

This time I’ll full box all 4 edges where the two pieces stack,  maybe drill a couple holes in one and plug weld it down to the 2″ square tube… Maybe add a cross plate above the tube. And use a much bigger welder for more penetrating heat.

Yeah, apparently forgot to paint it against rusting before I parked it last year too… 

Anyway, onward to custom plow mounting 2.0!

Categories: Adventure Metal Works, Alaska-Life, ATV, ATV Accessories, ATVing, Automotive Work, Custom, custom-made-tools, Damages, Fabrication, GetOutdoors, Modifications, Outdoors, Scrounging, Vehicles, Welding, Winter

Quartz to mechanical pocket watch conversion. V1.0

Back in mid May, I bought a cheap Chinese mechanical pocket watch. To be used as a movement donor, to fix one of my favorite quartz pocket watches that has bit the dust.  The quartz watch is special because it was one my Dad bought me.

I spent two days on ebay searching the watches for a dial/face I liked,  that was easy to read… Many mechanical watches have an unreadable color scheme,  or too much skeletonizing to be readable. 

I do like the dial in the quartz watch, but this process is a LOT easier if I don’t have to change the dial/hands between the movements. Or even remove them from the movements!


The project got shelved at the time. Then I realized how much I like the watch itself… The case is a little lightweight (cheap-ish) but it was nice enough, and went into rotation. Making it harder to canibalize for the other one.   

Every time I though of it, I put it off for various reasons.

Anyway. Today I was swapping watch chains around so I could carry my other mechanical pocket watch, and saw the quartz one on the shelf. Thought, gee wouldn’t it be nice to carry that one. And thinking how long it’s been since I carried the newer mechanical one… 

I thought oh why not, and took them apart right then. 

I always figured this would be a case of the mechanism not fitting, or the dial, or spacing ring etc, and turn out to be a real hassle to figure out.

At this point I did think that if nothing else, if it all went in ok, but the spacer ring didn’t fit, I could build a mount ring, or spacers with Sugru. 

Pulled the back covers first.

Measured the case diameters inside, quartz was 0.06″ smaller… PFFT! close enough!    

Pull plastic spacer rings, screw the crowns off (I need to find finer pliers for the next time, Victorinox Spirit tips were a bit big but worked great– you have to hold the inner shaft on the mech, and turn the crown off of it.) 

The mechanical dial was a touch smaller than the quartz one, but did fit ok. 

The mech. watches plastic ring fit the quartz case well enough, just had to whittle off some spacer nubs on its edge.. 

Room enough that the back plate went on too. 

Hands cleared the front glass. 

All perfect.

Except… 

The mechanical movement is thicker. By a few thousandths. So the stem shaft wouldn’t line up with the hole in the case/spring.  At least, not with out offsetting the dial in the case and binding the hands, and the crowns use.. 

I got that figured out with firm placement of the dial in place, and flexing/slightly bending the stem rod to line up, then starting the threads. Once started and seated it simply flexed the shafts where it needed it. 

Unfortunately…. (saw this coming, didn’t you?)

In the process,  I was handling a bare unprotected mechanical movement. That was running slightly… Somewhere I stopped it wrong, or pressed wrong,  or tweaked something… Ended up with a fine loop double up in the main spring/balance spring. 

Even if I could take it apart (oi.) I doubt I could straighten out the spring and make it work.  And I’d probably never get it back together right. 

So, at that point I had a half installed broken movement.  

I went ahead and finished the install, trimming the the plastic ring, etc.  

It all fits and would work great. If it still worked. Lol. 

So now I just need to order another of those watches to canibalize… A little more careful this time. 

Thankfully I’m only out about $12 on the broken one. It’ll still only be a $24 conversion! πŸ˜€ 

Only took three pics of the whole process, will take more the next time. 


Mechanical spacer ring in quartz case;



The spring after I was done trying to push the loop out… Yeah. 😦


Categories: Custom, Damages, EDC, Improviser, MacGyver, mechanical, Modifications, New Gear, Sentimental, Sugru, Watches

I *Think*Β it’s time to re-blue my 30-06 barrel.

At the least, some serious touch ups are needed.  Dragging it through the brush the last several years has taken its toll… Not to mention it turned 49 years old this summer, I’m sure some of these scratches were there before it was mine.

 But I do see a lot more after every season, some distinctively new this last week.. 

Especially on the underside. –Which makes sense; when the gun is shoulder slung, that part of the barrel meets the brush I push through as it goes over/around me.

And Yes, those are rust spots in the first pic, and on the muzzle… Found out the hard way that my Kolpin gun boot IV is NOT waterproof if left upside down..  

The butt end cover fits Over the main part of the case, but without a seal. So left upside down in the rain on the boat for 5 days, water runs into the cap… And then into the rest of the case when you pick it up.

 Dumped probably a quart of water out of it… Foam liner was basically soaked. Found this when loading the boat to come home  –no time to dry it.

–In defense of the case, it is designed to be solid mounted in a vehicle,  butt up, barrel down, cap up, “right side up”, so water couldn’t enter in this manner.  Ive been using it as a hard carry case off of a mount, Not what it was designed for.

About the only way you’d get water in it when mounted upright is full submersion… which its not designed for either..    Definitely operator error leaving it upside down in the rain a few days, Not a fault of the case or its design.

No other easy way to carry the rifle home though, to keep it out of the way anyway, and out of the rain. Had to put it in the wet case.  15 hours later when I got home, the rifle was pretty wet.. Wiped it down then, but it still managed to rust a few spots before I got it cleaned(couple days later).

Gave it a thorough WD-40 bath… Really slathered it on, whole action out of the stock, and the bore. Wiped down again. 

Then did a simple bore cleaning, solvent, brush, patches.. There is some somewhat heavy copper fouling in the bore, that  wouldn’t budge… Didnt want to scrub it THAT hard now, but if any of it was rust, I did brush it hard enough, I’m sure it would have come out.   Then oiled the snot out of it inside and out…

Did the 357 while I was at it… been meaning to clean and oil that gun for months, its spent a lot of time out in the weather this year, and it’s missing a lot more of its blueing. Actually amazes me that that gun never shows any rust inside or out..

Hate to admit it, but this is the cleanest they’ve both been for a couple years…

Honestly, I don’t clean guns often, if they shoot and function good, and ain’t rusting, all I do is oil from time to time.

  Do Need to get in a better habit though of post trip cleaning! At least for surface moisture/external dirt and grime if not full on scrubbing..

Categories: Adventures, ATV Accessories, Damages, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, old tools, Outdoors, Woods tools

Cheap Sunglasses

So, a little gear report from last week’s hunting trip.

More of a gear casualty report than a performance report. The item in question has worked great for about three years, up until we crushed them last Saturday(16th) night.

My most recent, and favorite sunglasses. Dragon Cinch, that I got from user FACE in the 2014 EDCF secret santa. 

REALLY amazing they’ve lasted this long with me already, actually! 

We had an issue with the boat on Saturday evening, suddenly taking on water, so Brian dropped us to just off idle, headed to thensure back where the trouble was, and had me drive. (Turned out a heat exchanger line that pumps river water into the cooler to cool the engine coolant had come off… we were literally pumping water into the boat! Fun. ) 

So, for a few miles of driving I took my shades off as we turned around out of the sun headed back toward the dock… Laid them on the drivers dash. 

Later when he took over, I forgot them there, and to not have anything loose on the dash at speed, he pocketed them thinking they were his. 

I didn’t need them anymore, it was partly overcast and dusk the rest of that day… 

That night we wedged the boat on a sandbar at sundown… in a shallow unreadable section of river. Got it off the sand but couldn’t go anywhere in the dark. 

Slept on the boat that night, tied off to a mud bank. Sleeping pad, bag, and tarp strung over head. (THAT was interesting. I ended up on the river side of the forward deck, a 2″ rail the only thing between me and rolling into the river. Amazingly I got a few hours sleep. Good test of my sleeping bag, there was ice on our gear in the boat the next morning… I was comfortable in my 20Β° bag, and it was at least down to freezing. )

Anyway, next morning we got going, moving good, into the sun… cant find my glasses. 

Hmm. 

He digs out his shades… but they’re not his. They’re mine. And he slept in his jacket. 

Yup. 

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I dug around and found his in the passenger console, so we didn’t hit anything, and atleast the guy driving could see to navigate… 

I did wear mine the rest of the day, and then again the full day on the river coming home a week later. Found that worn under my headband/hat, that one ear piece wasenough, and the spring hing tension and frame flex held the other side in place fine. Little close to me on that broKen side, fog up fast not in the wind, but it worked, so I didn’t complain!

No fault to anyone in their getting crushed, just one of those things that happens, especially when things get tossed around in an emergency(after all, the boat was sinking! when we both took our glasses off and they got mixed up).

So, first things first after getting home, looked at the brand/model/numbers. Go googling, figure they are so nice I’ll just get another pair. 

No wonder they were so nice, and survived so long with me…New price, $180. 

So much for my usual preference of cheap sunglasses (for this very reason- cheap to replace when they get broke or lost… and it’s a cool song πŸ˜‰ 

Serriously, people pay this for shades? Really? They’re nice, but… I dunno about $200 nice! 

Sorry, just surprised to find out I’ve been wearing fairly expensive shades, I guess.

Ok, so I found some for as low as $75. Not sure I can justify that either. Maybe. Not now anyway.

Don’t get me wrong, I like good gear, andheaven knows I have expensive tastes… 
But.. for sunglasses…

Time will tell I guess. 

So anyway, I think I can fix them, a little super glue, and if I can find the packet of blackSugru (that ironically I got in the 2015 EDCFsecret santa!) they should be fine for a while.  πŸ™‚

Categories: Adventures, Backcountry, Damages, EDC, EDC/MT use, GetOutdoors, Good Times, Hunting, No-pain-no-gain, Sunglasses

First time for everything…

First time I’ve ever UN hot wired a vehicle! πŸ˜‰ 

Back story is as follows; A buddy had his ATV stolen out of his yard in May. Insurance payed off and he got a new one… 3 weeks later, the troopers said “hey, we got your wheeler back”.

He’s run out of time for projects this summer, but would like to sell it to cover the difference between the cost of the new one and the insurance paid. 

So, I’m putting it back together and selling it for him.

If it was a horse I’d say rode hard, put up wet… They didn’t baby it, but I wouldn’t say they thrashed it. 

 Needs a few things cleaned up, and put back together since they had started to strip it.  

First up was fixing the hacked hot wire job. Then test ridding to make sure they didn’t screw the driveline etc.. It all works great!  

Wiring like this isn’t too hard when you have a full wiring diagram to start with (free download of full factory service manual!) 

And, your supplied with a new switch, and the proper plug for it.  Got wire extension colors close on a couple… 

Scrounged and shortened the harness wires for an aftermarket switch pod I’d bought for mine. 

The harness wires to the switch had been cut so short I had to add something, but having them all one color would be a pain. 

The next guy is going to wonder what the heck, but at least he won’t be fighting to track a wire in a bundle of all red or all black wires..  

Voila;

πŸ˜†

Couple days work on a few little cosmetic details and rewiring a winch, and then you should see it on Craigslist Fairbanks.  πŸ™‚

Categories: ATV, ATVing, Automotive Work, Damages, EDC/MT use, Improviser, Modifications, Outdoors, Vehicles, Wiring, Wrenching

ATV Clutch repair! (Part 4)Β 

The previous parts of this saga, were;

1.

The clutch going out.

 A weight bushing and shaft worn, and a broken weight roller on the spider, jamming between weight and roller, late last fall. 

Parked it for the winter.

2.

Then this spring, I decided that if I took out the pivot shafycfir the weight, and that the weight couldn’t come out without disassembly of the clutch, it wouldn’t bind and jam,  and should work on 3 weights. 

Which it did, flawlessly.

For about 3 months. 

3.

Then it managed to get the magic amount of rpm, clearance,  and weight orientation to throw the weight. About 3.5 weeks ago. 

Turned out at that point, that when still “floating” in the clutch, even though the weight wasn’t helping engage the clutch, that it’s trapped weight/mass was balancing the clutch! 

Horrendous vibration ensued, causing engine over heating, a high pitched hum, and increasing belt slipage. And eventually would no doubt eat engine bearings… 

I rode it some for work around the homestead,  but I’m the clutch slippage was getting worse every time I ran it. 

So… part 4.

I decided to replace the weight shaft, and bushing, making both myself to save cost. 

To add back the weight, but held in this time as intended to be, and eliminate the play that allowed it to bind up. The broken roller on the spider could wait a little while. 

Being lazy won out over being broke. Twice. First time about 3 weeks ago, I was going to lathe turn a new pivot shaft. 
Was easier to buy a new one. 

This time I was going to make the bushing for the weight … Never had the time or drive to do it for over a week. 

Found a atv/cycle parts place with amazingly reasonable shipping rates to Alaska (bikebandit.com). 

Few days later I have shiny little parts! 

Got 4 since everything online says you’ll crush a couple learning to press them in.

 Uhuh. 

I used a new bushing over the old shaft, slid through the old bushing/weight, nut on top to act as a stop, and drove the old one out while seating the new one…  

Slight bur created on end of new one trimmed out with a drill bit by hand. Took 5 min total, if that. And I have 3 bushings left! 

If nothing else I have the bushings to later do the other 3 weights. 
Then came instalation in the clutch.

REALLY wanted to do this without pulling the clutch off the engine. I bought a puller last winter, but there are a lot of horror stories about broken clutch pullers, and having to then cut the clutch up to get it off. If you got a cheap puller.  I did get a cheap, but not the cheapest puller… 

Yeah. 

 Couldn’t compress the clutch into the belt loop (as it does when the clutch is working, to open the area around the weight) as I had hoped I could, with clamps.  

Suddenly realized I could enlarge that belt loop, and clearance in it, by letting the belt tighten on the secondary clutch!

 Pry open secondary clutch, pull belt foreward, press primary clutch half inward, hold in place with clamp, insert weight, drive in new shaft(light press fit in clutch), install nuts, tighten. 

Voila! That was amazingly easy. Not sure why, but God sure does like me!

 plugged in the belt safety switch in the cover, wired the cover to the rack as high as possible,  kept my leg out of the clutches for a short test ride in the yard (don’t try this at home kids).

 NO MORE VIBRATION! Works like a DREAM!!  Took less than an hour total! $50 max total spent, used a whopping $11 in parts! 

If I’d known that could go that easy, I’d have gotten the parts and done it months ago!  

Bolted cover on and rode it 10 miles; perfect! No vibration, no high pitch buzz, no belt slip, no motor over heating, good clutch engagement!! 

Back to the way it was last year(yikes, hard to believe its been 10 months it first messed up!) before any of the clutch issues!!  
Now, technically I still need to replace the clutch center spider, that houses the (broken)roller that the weight runs on. 

But given how little wear there is on the weight compared to the rest of the worn parts, I think it is causing very little damage, very slowly.   

I’m pretty sure it can wait a month or two of reasonable riding, for me to save the funds to get the spider,  and build the tools needed to disassemble the clutch to change it. 

I will also be periodically checking on the play in that weight on the shaft–

(and, as a side point it’s now the tightest of all four… the other 4 bushings could use done within a couple years m, I’m sure.)

–because,  there is a section where the wear had eaten into the weight, that the new bushing is unsupported. 

Probably be fine for a long time, but I’ll check it from time to time just to be sure.  

Might just weld up that spot when I have it apart to do the spider. Or spring for a new weight.   But unless it starts to bind again,  I can’t see this causing any wear being a problem, for a while anyway. 

I’ve also decided that even though it still looks great, this couldn’t have been good for the belt, and I gave no idea how old it is anyway. I’ll put a new belt on it as soon as I can afford it. Hopefully when I replace the clutch spider; Since the clutch has to come off to change the belt (what idiot thought that up??!?), and I’d like to minimize times I have to do that… 

Categories: Adventures, Alaska-Life, ATV, ATVing, Automotive Work, Damages, GetOutdoors, Improviser, MacGyver, Modifications, Outdoors, Riding, Vehicles, Wrenching

Parts make the world spin…

Among other things that spin. I’ll just leave these here; 

Currently trying to find a new one that I can afford. Actually, afford to ship is more accurate. 


The pivot wear;


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(Bonus points awarded if you can tell me what it is πŸ˜‰πŸ˜ŽπŸ˜ˆ )

Categories: ATV, Automotive Work, Damages, Life-Philosophy, Vehicles, Wrenching

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