Damages

Dmax Armor S5 Active screen protector.

So, time for a new one.
This one fits great; much better than the last. Instead of holes to go around speaker, buttons etc, it’s C or U cutouts around them. It’s thicker, but still slightly recessed inside the “lip” around the phone screen. And much to my surprise and delight, it has a much better glare protection; I can almost use it in full sunlight!
All for another $6 shipped!
It was extremely well packed, a hard box, alcohol wipe, drying wipe, a dust collector pad, stickers to use for locating it, and then tucked in with the screen itself, a micro fiber cloth! Screen itself was in a thin plastic sheet bag, inside a padded bag.

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If it’s half as durable as it is well packed andaccessorized, it should last at least the next 3years!
I’ll have to dig around and see if I can find another camera, a way to take a pic of it on my phone, and post it. Even as boring as that might be to see, it’s still weird to post about it and not actually be able to show it…

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Categories: Adventures, Alaska-Life, Damages, Electronics/Media

MYRIANN Tempered Glass Screen Protector, After 3 Years.

About three years and 2 weeks ago I got a tempered glass screen protector for my then new Samsung Galaxy S5 Active. A cheap one.

Its great! Clear and touch sensitive, can’t tell any diference in using the phone. Easy to clean, and so far I have yet to mark, scratch or stain it, and I’ve been on a messy construction/remodelling job site all week.
It was easy to apply, with a glasses cleaning cloth, the included alcohol wipe, and antistatic dust collector cloth… peel the back, press it in place, and press the center, and the adheasive magicaly self levels out all the air bubbles… It wasn’t even a one time deal, the adheasive will lift, and allowed me to move it twice to get the best fit, yet its still on there solid if your not trying to move it.
Now, it doesn’t fit Exactly right. Its a touch too big at the top and botton edges, and since my phones screen sits in a recess with a lip around it, the top edge of the protector is held just slightly above the surface of the screen… But its and area like 1/8” wide, but maybe 1/4” long above the speaker… Big deal

The same goes for the 1/8” wide bar that crosses across the bottom below the buttons, for like 1” its off the screen. Again, who cares?
Both spots are only sitting about half way up that lip, and because of the lip itself nothing can get under the protector in those areas, so it doesn’t matter. Otherwise its a perfect fit.
Here is the card that came with it, for the item/brand info if anyone is interested. This was like $6 shipped.

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And amazingly it’s lasted all thee years. Mostly;

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My phones screen by comparison is immaculate! Not a mark or speck on it!

I’d say that cheap $6 screen protector definitely did it’s job, and I more than got the good from it, and beyond the investment!

Categories: Adventures, Alaska-Life, Damages, EDC, Electronics/Media, Usage Reviews

Tool box refurbishment 1.0

Slight diversion from a week or two ago. Old Craftsman tool box I had, Dad bought it for me eons ago. Hadn’t really used it since the early 2000s, it was oil, grease, grime and who knows what soaked inside and out.
Forgot to take before pics. Paint was lifting off in some places and pitch/dirt/mold/grime covered and faded in others.
Bought a wire wheel for the angle grinder and went at it. Have been using up some 4 or 5 year old spray paint a buddy gave me a while back, picked a color and went at it.
Not sure why I didn’t do it in red and white to match my truck…. Just felt like blue I guess. Lol.
Not sure I really have any use for it now, but at least it’s clean and a solid finish now.
As you can see in close ups I didn’t have it as smooth over the old paint that I left as I thought I did… And the ancient paint didn’t flow/self level like it should have either, didn’t coat the rough areas as it should/could have. Good enough though, who looks that close anyway? 😉

Categories: Automotive Work, Customized, Damages, Modifications, Repairs, Sentimental, Shop Tools, Tool Boxes, Wrenching

Victorinox Leatherman sheath fixed.

Finally remembered to fix the Leatherman sheath that I carried my Vic Spirit in. The Nylon one was working so well, I’d forgotten about it. 

Oil tanned leather strap scrap, and a few rivets. Was going to just restitch the top of the loop shorter, but the lower stitches didn’t look too swift. And no way I could stitch the bottom(OK, it IS possible, but I don’t have the patience or dexterity to do it).  Decided screw it, new loop piece, clear the stich holes with longer length and rivet it, a lot easier!

Light imprint on the loop where I over did the vice (too hard to get these rivets to seat without off setting/bending over with the hammer and punch made for them, so I always just vice press them). It doesn’t show, and I wouldn’t care if it did… 

Forgot about the front snap  (whoops! )when I did them, crimped one spot on its edge. Still works fine… if it messes up latet4, I can replace it no big deal. 

Categories: Custom, Damages, EDC, Fabrication, Leather, Multitools, Sheaths, Uncategorized

Multi Sheaths. 

In other news, the belt loop on the sheath I use for my Victorinox Spirit gave up the ghost about 1.5 weeks ago. 


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Thankfully not completely! It was started at one corner when I left yesterday morning, figured it’d be fine a day or two, since it’s been rough and loose at the stitches, and stretched but not torn for weeks (months probably ). 

Also Thankfully I didn’t lose it! Never ceases to amaze me, I dont deserve it but God continues to be very good to me!

And yes, that’s not a Vic sheath. It’s Leatherman! Made for the original Wave.(for those that don’t know, there have been two Wave models, the first slightly more compact model around 2000ish, the second bigger, and current one from around 2004.)


I never liked the Victorianox sheaths, leather but thick and clunky, and worst of all, velcro closure. Was looking for a sheath for my New Wave at the time I got this, turned out to not fit it. But after a couple months when I lost the Wave, and got the Vic, it got put to use. The Spirit always fit this sheath better than it did the one made for it! 

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It was new, old stock then, wish I’d thoughthe to grab another one… Be impossible to get another now, IF I ever really have to replace it. :(

That was late 2006 early 2007.. 11 or 12 years of almost(have carried the Vic probably 80% of that time)constant use ain’t bad! 

Will make a new loop and stitch it on this week. Might just stitch new loops bottom end to the old loop, so I don’t have to go to the hassle of curved glove needles and working inside the bottom of the sheath.. Gonna use 550 inner strands, or if I can find my roll of Gearward Kevlar string that a friend gifted me a couple years ago, I’ll use that.  

That sheath gets a lot of abuse where I wear it, ran into and against everything, laid on, scraped around on machinery and the ground. If nothing else, I want to try to garrantee the stitches hold!

I actually wrote this post above, about a week ago. Never got it posted.  I’ve also not gotten around to fixing the belt loop.   But I have been carrying the Spirit.  A couple days loose in a rear pocket, but that got old fast.  Dug around for my bag of misc. sheaths, and got out a slim nylon Leatherman version. 



Fits like a glove! A little tight upon re-holstering, but not bad. Yes it’s velcro closure, but it’s actually not been bad so far!  I don’t think I’d want to use it forever,  and I’ll still fix the leather one, but it works perfectly fine for now.  Big bonus is that it’s almost as slim and compact/unobtrusive as the leather one. 


Another bonus, was that it has the room in it to hold the Spirit with the pliers open/handles unfolded!  I must have unconsciously known this, because I suddenly found I’d been carrying it that way for a while during a job.  That can be very handy at times! 

Categories: Daily-cary-log, Damages, EDC, EDC/MT use, Leather, Multitools, Repairs, Sheaths

ATV plow, first use. 

Got 4″ of powder last Thursday night, finally enough to try out the ATV plow! 

I built the mount, and had it all ready in early October of 2016. But the night I finished it, and went to test ride with it mounted, is the night the clutch went out. I didn’t know what to do with the clutch until spring of 2017, so the wheeler and plow sat unused all winter. I never got to try the plow until this weekend!

SO, Anyway, I used the Prairie to plow my yard and driveway Friday. Works great!

One small section of drive plowed;

Took about the same amount of time as it does with my truck… Truck moves more in one pass, but takes more time to maneuver…

The wheeler is smaller, easier to turn and has better visibility. But not as much power or blade size to move a lot at once. 50/50-90 kinda thing.  I’ll break it up from now on, truck for large bulk areas, wheeler for the tight spaces, trimming up. 

Did have one problem. The plow doesn’t have an upward stop for lifting the blade… Just where you stop the winch. So if you go too far, it just keeps pulling. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if you have it all the way up or not. 

Broke some welds on the mount pulling it up too far.  Will need to re-weld that, and make some sort of positive stop that hits the bumper or something, so I can tell for sure when to stop the winch.. 

I’m thinking just a upward angled bar braced off the plow, that would hit the bumper, and be a solid stop I’d feel. Maybe have it high enough that I could see it… Something like that. 

Got the main mount piece with the breaks inside melting/drying out now, will get it done and back on in the morning,  so I can plow the new 2″ or 3″ tomorrow afternoon. 

I’m really not surprised it broke… I’m only semi professionally trained at welding, still not real good at it, and this was done with a rather light welder for steal this heavy… 

 And it was being torqued at this area by a 2000# winch, with about 3′ of leverage added… It simply tried to hinge on the welds and sheared them, and is now hinging/flexing others.

 Looks like I missed welding straight across the back edges too, which would be a lot of loss of strength against pull in this direction.. Whoops.  

I’m actually happy it broke where it did. This piece is a 2″ receiver hitch mount, that goes into a 2″ receiver tube mounted on the wheeler. Breaking at the female side on the wheeler would have been a Lot bigger of a pain to fix! 

And the plow itself hinges onto this piece. Breaking the plow side would have been worse too, mainly for being able to get it into my heated shop where the bigger welder is set up, and I’d probably have gad to do a lot more re-engineering if part of that broke.

All in all, if it was going to break, it’s the best area for it.

This time I’ll full box all 4 edges where the two pieces stack,  maybe drill a couple holes in one and plug weld it down to the 2″ square tube… Maybe add a cross plate above the tube. And use a much bigger welder for more penetrating heat.

Yeah, apparently forgot to paint it against rusting before I parked it last year too… 

Anyway, onward to custom plow mounting 2.0!

Categories: Adventure Metal Works, Alaska-Life, ATV, ATV Accessories, ATVing, Automotive Work, Custom, custom-made-tools, Damages, Fabrication, GetOutdoors, Modifications, Outdoors, Scrounging, Vehicles, Welding, Winter

Quartz to mechanical pocket watch conversion. V1.0

Back in mid May, I bought a cheap Chinese mechanical pocket watch. To be used as a movement donor, to fix one of my favorite quartz pocket watches that has bit the dust.  The quartz watch is special because it was one my Dad bought me.

I spent two days on ebay searching the watches for a dial/face I liked,  that was easy to read… Many mechanical watches have an unreadable color scheme,  or too much skeletonizing to be readable. 

I do like the dial in the quartz watch, but this process is a LOT easier if I don’t have to change the dial/hands between the movements. Or even remove them from the movements!


The project got shelved at the time. Then I realized how much I like the watch itself… The case is a little lightweight (cheap-ish) but it was nice enough, and went into rotation. Making it harder to canibalize for the other one.   

Every time I though of it, I put it off for various reasons.

Anyway. Today I was swapping watch chains around so I could carry my other mechanical pocket watch, and saw the quartz one on the shelf. Thought, gee wouldn’t it be nice to carry that one. And thinking how long it’s been since I carried the newer mechanical one… 

I thought oh why not, and took them apart right then. 

I always figured this would be a case of the mechanism not fitting, or the dial, or spacing ring etc, and turn out to be a real hassle to figure out.

At this point I did think that if nothing else, if it all went in ok, but the spacer ring didn’t fit, I could build a mount ring, or spacers with Sugru. 

Pulled the back covers first.

Measured the case diameters inside, quartz was 0.06″ smaller… PFFT! close enough!    

Pull plastic spacer rings, screw the crowns off (I need to find finer pliers for the next time, Victorinox Spirit tips were a bit big but worked great– you have to hold the inner shaft on the mech, and turn the crown off of it.) 

The mechanical dial was a touch smaller than the quartz one, but did fit ok. 

The mech. watches plastic ring fit the quartz case well enough, just had to whittle off some spacer nubs on its edge.. 

Room enough that the back plate went on too. 

Hands cleared the front glass. 

All perfect.

Except… 

The mechanical movement is thicker. By a few thousandths. So the stem shaft wouldn’t line up with the hole in the case/spring.  At least, not with out offsetting the dial in the case and binding the hands, and the crowns use.. 

I got that figured out with firm placement of the dial in place, and flexing/slightly bending the stem rod to line up, then starting the threads. Once started and seated it simply flexed the shafts where it needed it. 

Unfortunately…. (saw this coming, didn’t you?)

In the process,  I was handling a bare unprotected mechanical movement. That was running slightly… Somewhere I stopped it wrong, or pressed wrong,  or tweaked something… Ended up with a fine loop double up in the main spring/balance spring. 

Even if I could take it apart (oi.) I doubt I could straighten out the spring and make it work.  And I’d probably never get it back together right. 

So, at that point I had a half installed broken movement.  

I went ahead and finished the install, trimming the the plastic ring, etc.  

It all fits and would work great. If it still worked. Lol. 

So now I just need to order another of those watches to canibalize… A little more careful this time. 

Thankfully I’m only out about $12 on the broken one. It’ll still only be a $24 conversion! 😀 

Only took three pics of the whole process, will take more the next time. 


Mechanical spacer ring in quartz case;



The spring after I was done trying to push the loop out… Yeah. 😦


Categories: Custom, Damages, EDC, Improviser, MacGyver, mechanical, Modifications, New Gear, Sentimental, Sugru, Watches

I *Think* it’s time to re-blue my 30-06 barrel.

At the least, some serious touch ups are needed.  Dragging it through the brush the last several years has taken its toll… Not to mention it turned 49 years old this summer, I’m sure some of these scratches were there before it was mine.

 But I do see a lot more after every season, some distinctively new this last week.. 

Especially on the underside. –Which makes sense; when the gun is shoulder slung, that part of the barrel meets the brush I push through as it goes over/around me.

And Yes, those are rust spots in the first pic, and on the muzzle… Found out the hard way that my Kolpin gun boot IV is NOT waterproof if left upside down..  

The butt end cover fits Over the main part of the case, but without a seal. So left upside down in the rain on the boat for 5 days, water runs into the cap… And then into the rest of the case when you pick it up.

 Dumped probably a quart of water out of it… Foam liner was basically soaked. Found this when loading the boat to come home  –no time to dry it.

–In defense of the case, it is designed to be solid mounted in a vehicle,  butt up, barrel down, cap up, “right side up”, so water couldn’t enter in this manner.  Ive been using it as a hard carry case off of a mount, Not what it was designed for.

About the only way you’d get water in it when mounted upright is full submersion… which its not designed for either..    Definitely operator error leaving it upside down in the rain a few days, Not a fault of the case or its design.

No other easy way to carry the rifle home though, to keep it out of the way anyway, and out of the rain. Had to put it in the wet case.  15 hours later when I got home, the rifle was pretty wet.. Wiped it down then, but it still managed to rust a few spots before I got it cleaned(couple days later).

Gave it a thorough WD-40 bath… Really slathered it on, whole action out of the stock, and the bore. Wiped down again. 

Then did a simple bore cleaning, solvent, brush, patches.. There is some somewhat heavy copper fouling in the bore, that  wouldn’t budge… Didnt want to scrub it THAT hard now, but if any of it was rust, I did brush it hard enough, I’m sure it would have come out.   Then oiled the snot out of it inside and out…

Did the 357 while I was at it… been meaning to clean and oil that gun for months, its spent a lot of time out in the weather this year, and it’s missing a lot more of its blueing. Actually amazes me that that gun never shows any rust inside or out..

Hate to admit it, but this is the cleanest they’ve both been for a couple years…

Honestly, I don’t clean guns often, if they shoot and function good, and ain’t rusting, all I do is oil from time to time.

  Do Need to get in a better habit though of post trip cleaning! At least for surface moisture/external dirt and grime if not full on scrubbing..

Categories: Adventures, ATV Accessories, Damages, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, old tools, Outdoors, Woods tools

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