This months OKC22 challenge is collecting and lighting 5 natural tinders with ferro rod. I cant stand ferro rods, and dont use them. I find real flint and steel faster and easier!
As far as I knew, I didn’t own one, other than the blast match style ine a friend gave me, thats in my ATV hunting gear… cant strike that with the knife.
Then I remembered this little guy I made, a 3/16″ rod set in a muley deer tine with a scraper years ago..
Figured I’d try that, but its a short shower of sparks, and hard to use with a bigger knife..
Then, I happened onto pics I had of a bigger ferro rod I’d forgotten. If I still had it. Found it quite by accident after giving up, looking for something else lol. Was getting ready to remove the handle and replace with something better, when I got deja vu…
Went and dug around and found the one I started to do that to like 4 years ago… Went ahead and did that one instead.
One of my peeves with these things is the ever epic short grip. So I grabbed a block of curly maple(close enough to the curly oak on the knife) , drew out a design and put a nice sized grip on it.
Wanted as much rod length exposed as possible, found it a super tight fit in 9/32″ brass tube(hammered in, it is NOT coming out). Fit 1/4″ into the tube, then 2″ of the tube set in the wood handle. Extended the rod reach, and in theory when its used up(if ever) I can remove the stub, add a new rod to the handle.
Could have cut/carved/sanded, but I went and put it in the metal lathe.
Siting here with a first coat of wipe on poly drying. 🙂
Got this a couple/three weeks ago, cargo divider bar to keep gas and water cans in place in the truck. PITA to always be strapping them in. Looked at building something, but I didn’t have any viable scrap on hand and buying even electrical conduit or black water pipe and needed fittings cost more than this thing!
$25 @ Lowes. Easier to move it around than what I would have been able to build too. Adjustable from like 50″ to 72″
Did learn much to my amazement, that my bed inside width is wider than 72″. Hell, the outer width if the flatbed is only 72″, and I swore it was wider than a stock box. This box might actually be sprung an inch or so, but still…
But yeah, the feet on the ends have holles in them already, assumedly for what I did; screw them to 2×6 chunks. Little less grip than the rubber grippy feet, but it works fine so far.
There it is with my improvised sideways divider, to separate diesel and water jugs… A scrap stove pipe support bracket I brought home from work, already made up. Didn’t quite clear my 5th wheel hitch(gotta get rid of that soon) but if you flipped it around and sat it at a slight angle it worked for most arrangements.
I got tired of it not fitting all the cans I needed, separately, on the right sides… And it all still had to be strapped somewhere.
Went browsing online for parts ideas(Lowes app is a rube goldberg/macgyver designers dream for finding hardware! )
Between black steel pipe and SteelTek structural pipe, I figured I could make a couple L shaped dividers that would slide on the sucker, outer L sitting on the bed floor (2 because there are the two telescoping tube sizes on it) and lock in place with some set screw/knobs.
Thats sorta what I ended with..
I did buy a chunk of pipe, a couple pipe fittings, and one steeltek fitting… but my total for one divider was over $30…
On the way out of the store, I decided to hell with it and got another of the ratcheting dividers for $25, too.
I’d already found that the feet are just pinned on with a rivet(the pipe bottoms in the cup on the foot first, pressure is dirrect, not held by thd rivet/pin). I’d removed the feet and hair clipped/bolted them back on the first one. Easier to move around and be able to put it in trough the other frame without the 3m2x6 ends on it…
With the second one, I found that with the feet off, the inner pipe will slide out the back of the outer one…
So I got to measuing and cutting.
Liked the idea of an adjustable divider, I can put the main bar further forward and still use it… Would have liked to leave more length, but to get it to shorten enough to trap the cans, it left me with just about 30″ max. Thats with it cut to be a minimum length of 16″, 1″ over the 15″ gas cans…
The bigger bar OD is 1.25″, small inner one is a touch over 7/8″. Unfortunately Steeltek(and plumbing pipe) specs for 1.25″ are off… Its ID of their pipe. So all the fittings are much bigger!! And 3/4″ pipe OD is even bigger than 1.25″ OD, so i couldn’t just drop a size.
Could have used 3/4″ water fittings IF I drilled or machined the threads out, then the dia would work. Too freaking much work.
So yeah, the smaller pipe goes into the steeltek T, with about 3/8″ of play, but locked in with the set screw on the short one… the other two screws on the cross bar are snugged up, but so it can slide.
So, maybe $55 in actual used materials, got me one bar and one divider, that I can move on one side of the main bar. If I need the divider past center to the other side of the truck I can just flip the whole affair endo. If I need divider on both ends after all, I’ll think of something for a slider T then… maybe weld one up.. and cut down another ratchet bar, or use the water pipe I got… will find out at the time.
Ir bows the main bar out a little, with the ball pivots on the feet, and the center joint only being overlapped a couole inches lets it flex. Just have to remember to just snug the divider, not torque it in. The only real downside now is since its tightened against the tail gate, it drops every time you open the gate, and has to be re-ratcheted in place when you close it. Only mildly annoying. I might get another T and put a foot/leg under the end.. maybe.
Going to get a female/female coupler somehow, maybe find some pipe that will slip over the 7/8″ tube(maybe machine out a short chunk of 3/4″ steeltek pipe?) And I can butt joint the piece I cut off, back on at times… and use it as an extension, have a longer divider that way, with some adjustment still… will have to play with it.
I kinda unmodified the main blade in this Rough Rider doctors knife. When I got it was the earlier time in my life when I was experimenting with using wharncliffe blades… (later stopping, then going back again after several years)
I’d modified both pen blades in this to wharnies.
Which is almost as pointless as two pen blades… not sure why I did both. I’d also ground both to convex no secondary bevel edges, something else I was using a lot then. (This was around 2006, 2007 ish…)
I just made the main blade back into a pen, and dropped the kick to get the tip below the liners. The convex I left. Dont use that much anymore, but can’t see a problem with it either.
Finally did something with the blades in this Schmachtenberg Bros. sleeveboard I got last summer.
Squared the ragged end off the broken main, and rounded the back corner off so its not sharp to hold anymore.
Sharpened the pen blade too, and dropped its tip so its below the liners. Could have left it a higher tip, and dropped the kick, but that would have made it impossible to open without cutting a relief in the scale/liner, and I didn’t want to do that on this one, wanted the frame shape left alone.
This knife has a looong history of mods with me. I first got it in late 2005, or early 2006. I think in 2006.
It was the fist traditional pocket knife that I really carried a Lot and worked a Lot. We started building our garage tgat summer and I remember the lighting fast cuts it made opening cement bags… A highly abrasive task that never seemed to phase it.
It is made by Bear MGC, Now Bear and Sons. Its a Damascus steel 4.125″ 2 blade trapper. It was built with brass liners, nickel silver bolsters, and thick swell center burnt stag bone handles.
Within a week I’d ground the stag down to smooth “normal” profile, and retoasted them a light caramel.
Within a couple years, I’d taken it apart to rehandle it in sonething else.
About 10 years later, I had gotten back to it after purchasing another like it that I did in moose stag.
At that pointvid picked out materials, etc along the way, knew what I wanted to do, had just never had the time or gumption to do it.
Finally in 2015, I decided what the heck, and did it.
Ithink I’ve carried it five times since I built it like that. Used less. When I did it, I left it Really thick toward the back, for a tapered fatter grip, which I thought I’d like.
It was OK to grip, but not great, and turned out horrendousto pocket.
The best couple pics at the end of the above posts, that show what I ended up not liking, are these I think.
Aaaannnnddd… where I started this time;
Icarefully sawed slots inthe “pins”(corby bolts!), cranked them apart, and tookthesucker apart. Thankfully I had a hatred for glueingknife scales on, so no trouble there.
Cut and filed the uneven bolsters the same length(damn close)
evened the scales lengths, made spacers for the gap, made/modified pins(bolts) to fit, thinned the scales out.
Looks like I missed pics of cutting, stacking, and installing the fiber spacers. That was tedious but i got them a tight fit.
During, attached together to match the profile, thicknesses easier, blue tape the super glue that together.
Got into some porosity… semi super glue filled after I was done.
Top bolt was the same as the lower when I started, had to lathe them so the shanks were longer. Half this hardware was in the knife when I took it apart. The other half was pirces Id screwed up the first time around that I had to mod/fix.
Made a short brass spacer from a loveless bolt set even shorter for a corby bolt I had that wasn’t long enough to reach through the second liner… spacer is threaded so when its all cranked together its the same support and grip as the corby shaft being longer..
Assembled and had actually sanded the scales too short from the spacers(freaking fine sanding to fit the angles) so I came up with a secret weapon, and filled the gaps.. color even works ok with these scales.
We’ll see how durable it turns out to be.
Assembled and ground the corbys off, still no epoxy in it in case I want to have it apart again someday. (Not likely!!!)
Finish sanded and thinned it some more, hand sanded everything @220, and buffed lightly…
Need a clean buffing wheel, will set that up and buff the bolsters to high gloss… someday. 😉
But for now, she’s done again! Its a lot cleaner of a build now, and friendlier in hand and pocket.
I like it a lot better!! Its a much better grip, still thicker than a single blade trapper would be, it feels like a slightly thick two blade folder, or a thin fixed blade. And it basically disappears in pocket too.
Maybe after about 15 years, I might get to carry it again. 🙂
(Wood filler is the thin tan lines between the bone scales and the first red spacer)
Yeah, backup blades of the same type aren’t my thing. I’m more for multiple blades in different styles, for different tasks. I can see how it would be, as these were originally meant asa skinning blade. Use it till dull, swap blades and keep going without having to change yourway of doing things to compensate for a different blade. But I don’t do that kind of repetitive work that warrants a direct replacement blade. So, yeah.
Ended up with a nice lambsfoot profile. And just about the same length of edge as is onthe sheepsfoot in the stockman.
Usually I do the back or pile side blade for this, but the curve of the frame leaves more accessto the nail nick on the front/mark side blade, than if does the other. So I did the front. The main blade used will be the straight edgeanyway… Might as well make it the mark sideblade, usually considered the “main” blade side.
Slight swedging and blend of spine edges.
Might touch the “peak” on the spine a bit tostraighten the overall look of the blade. Then again I might forget. It doesn’t really need it.