So…. is it bad that I had it 3 days, carrying it 2 days, and already modded it? Lol..
But then, I knew I would when I bought it. my usual, favorite blade preferences, applied to my favorite blade arrangement. (Yeah, you should have seen this coming when I first posted the knife!)
Clip into sheeps foot, clipped shorter and narrowed, then re-edged. Also dropped the kick, to sit lower in the frame when closed, as far as I could.
The spey I made into a clip/skinner, taking some of the swedge out, and removing the raised tip.
With its bigger cousin, the same mods on a Case Muskrat. The moose isn’t actually any narrower, and its thicker. But is shorter.
Its enough of a difference though, its smaller in pocket, which was what I was after in a mini muskrat/moose frame. But it still grips nice in hand, a great bonus.
I’ve only had it about 1.5 weeks, not a lot of carry yet, so I really have no need for anything different than the pocket holster, yet.
But I’m sure a time will come when I want to belt carry it, so why not go ahead and make ond of my holsters for it?
No construction pics this time. Its the same as my last two, the first for the Bersa, then one for my Bearcat(Both can be found on the blog), this one is just scaled down slightly for the LCP.
I lost a little of my preferred forward “FBI” cant, but its still fine. Small notch to clear the mag release; This way it could get pushed, but I was more woried about it being pushed with the leather over it. This way its shielded/flush with the leather.
No retention strap yet. Its a VERY tight fit right now, plenty of hold. After it breaks in and stretches some, I’ll look at adding a strap, that way the fit and length will be right.
With its inspiration, the first of them, made for the Bersa. Thatcone is beoke in, but still snug, and still works great after 3 or 4 years.(Edit; I got curious and had to check. 6 years! Made in august of 2013!)
Honestly, the LCP2 actually fit the Bersa holster rather well. It would have worked, except the strap length.
Buf it was a touch too deep, I’d end up bending up the lower tip of the holster in use, and the long strap would be annoying.
An older project. I started this in the summer of 2018, for a friend’s birthday. His name starts with a W, thus our title above. 🙂
He does electronics work, so when I found this old amp meter, in DC milliamperes, in some stuff that had been my Dads, it seemed perfect for a gift.
But i couldn’t just give a bare gauge…
Ok, I could have, but where’s the fun in that? 😉
I missed the birthday.
Managed to get it done and give it in the spring of 2019. Ha!
But anyway, here it is. Only the 3rd box I’ve ever built in my life. (So don’t judge me too harsly!)
Its white oak, and curly maple. It was entertaining to get it how I wanted it, rabbeted construction, a place to store the leads (plugs and leads stolen from an old multi meter I took apart), but still compact. Engineered and re-engineered seveeal times, but I got it!
I don’t really have all of the pics I could, no step by step.And no steps of progress like I’d like… Hust a mishmash of what I managed to take, and the final product.
These things are popular right now, with the high torque long battery life of modern cordless drills, its verry easy to drill ice holes with them.
Several companies make dedicated augers for this(a friend just got a 6″ K-Drill, works great!).
Also popular are these adaptors to run augers off of hand augers.
I figured the large 8″ auger off my new gas unit was probably heavier than the 8″ hand units, and definitely heavier than the 6″ hand units. But I also figured it should still work, maybe as fast as the others, but if the drill had the torqe to turn it, I’d still have holes!
Adaptors for the hand augers run around $25. But as far as I could tell, the shaft size was different than the gas augers.
And besides that, $25 for something I could turn myself on the lathe? Yup 😉
So, auger in hand, in the shop, and a couple hours later I had this;
Before and after, it’s turned from solid 1.5″ aluminum.
And then I decided it needed a side handle for stability. 1st version with a roller bearing between ring and shaft failed… Accidentally ended up too narrow to drill and tap for thd handle stud. Oops!
Second try I left out the bearing to save time and work, I figured if the whole concept works, I can do it later.
Opposing stud is for an added safety catch, the works can’t drop through the ice… Technically if the drill comes off though, the auger itself can– Considering the drill can’t got through a 8″ hole when on the auger, I kinda missed the boat on thst feature. Lol.
Need to re-mount this or similar below the connection to the auger…
But anyway, there she is!
Tried it yesterday, and it does work, it will crank it in the ice, and drill holes!
But its pretty slow.
Faster and easier than a hand auger, for sure. But the work needed isn’t something I’d want to subject this drill to very often.
We tried it on my buddies bigger drill, and it ate through pretty dang fast. Not as fast as the 6″ K-Drill, but very respectable!
Faster/more powerful drill than what I have, and it’d be perfectly fine.
So yeah, it works. But I won’t be using it. Bigger drill would be a couple hundred minimum. Smaller lighter auger bit, about $60. But since I have the nice 43cc gas motor for this one, I really can’t justify any of the cost.
I’ll shelf it. If I end up with a more powerful drill, or a hand auger, I’ll have the option to try it again.
If nothing else, it was a fun project for the lathe, I enjoyed it. 🙂
When out last Saturday I wanted to travel lighter, leave my folding chair and fish cooler behind, go with a bucket seat. But there was no way in hell I was going shopping on black Friday!
Some old foam, a chunk of naugahide, and some scrap lumber in the shop, couple hours and I made me a hinged, padded, bucket seat, that doubles as a fish carrier.
It works! 😉
Only downside I’ve found is no backrest for 4 hours sucks 😉 and it sliddes a little on the ice. Second trip out with it yesterday and I put it in a milk crate, for traction. Works good, adds some stability and places to hang things.
Some of you might remember fix 1.0 last year. A friend was given an Eskimo Quickfish 3, but he doesn’t (ice)fish, so gave it to me. It had 2 broken poles. The ends had snapped relatively clean off, so I made connectors to reattach the ends for the hubs to the poles.
Done in brass because it was the only stock I had bigger diameter than the pole end pieces.
This year I had it set up before first snow to dry out (outside storage over the summer) and 8″ of snow load collapsed the top; I broke a pole getting it cleaned off...
This time it broke the pole mid length, and it exploded, long slivers of fiberglass everywhere… Couldn’t salvage it, and handling it to salvage the end/hinge piece was too hazzardoes.
So, I made a new pole, and the end this time. Machined the hinge end from aluminum, with a steel cross pin. And mounted on a fiberglass driveway marker rod. Works great!
(These poles are only $10 new, but shipping something 49” long to Alaska is rediculously expensive!)