Grip tinkering.

Pietta 1860 navy grip frame test fit on a Ruger Blackhawk. 😎  Saw someone else do a 1860 grip on a Blackhawk, but wasn’t sure if my cap and ball revolver was true 1860 spec. Looks like it is. 

Backstrap is a great fit. 

 Trigger guard would need the front hole filled and mover about 3/8″, and the slot for the trigger widened.  
Then of course the back strap would need supports for the Ruger style mainspring and trigger spring fabricated and installed.    

Honestly probably take me less than an afternoon to do the full conversion.  🙂

Why would I want to? 

Because I have small hands and this grip is a a different profile, it’s a Lot more comfortable.

 Also, I want to eventually strip and brown this gun, and the brass would look Sweet!   And I like to tinker…. Can’t seem to leave Anything stock. Lol. 

Now all I gotta do is snag another 1860 grip frame set online (not using these since I’m not giving up the use of my Pietta!)

Categories: Brass, Custom, Fabrication, Guns, Gunsmithing, Hunting, old tools, Theory/Thoughts

New toy from a while back..


Pretty sure I hadn’t posted about this yet. It’s a compass, small, about 1″ in diameter brass cased. It came in a hand made leather case, with neck strap.

I won it in a random drawing giveaway on Instagram in early March!

Now, it turned out that only about 10 people had entered,  so the odds weren’t extravagant,  but still! 😉

The compass is small, but high quality, made in the USA by Tru-Nord. I’d looked at these before, and thought they were rather spendy, but now I see, actually well worth it.

Shown with my leather clad brass spy glass made by Celestron. They seemed a perfect match, a real old world exploration feel. (Especially since I’ve been reading a lot of novels set in the early 1600s!) 😎

Categories: Brass, Leather, New Gear, Outdoors

My first coin ring!

Instagram is a dangerous place for a craftsman… SO Many new ideas to see, and to Try. I’d seen coin rings— Rings made from coins— before, but done where you centerdrill a coin, put it on a bar, and hammer the outer edge, mushrooming it out to the sides, slowly while rotating the coin… When you get down to the diameter, or out to the width you want, then you drill/cut away the center to the ring sixe needed… Its an OLD process, been around for centuries…

But the ones I’m seeing now are done with a hole in the center, then working the coin sideawys, bending, stretching and shrinking it over, so that one side of the coin ends up inside the ring, the other side making the outer ring surface… Then it is stretched or shrunk to size… So that you get this sweet showing if the coins printing/images inside and out of the ring!  

Lotsd of pics, and some videos later, and I figure I can do that!  It can’t be as easy as it looks, but I’m pretty handy…

OK, so to be honest, this is my Second coin ring. The rist didn’t turn out so well. If I can figure out how to UN-screw it up, you’ll see it… If not… Well… 😉 (OK, you might still see it..) 

Anyway, here is the one that worked, made from an Alaska state quarter. If you look close you can see the remnants of the coin edge on one side. And if you look Really close you can just read “ALASKA” in the face; I didn’t totally oblitherate the markings, just 99% of them. 😉  Now I see in the pics, there are a few letters faintly visible on the inner surface as well.














I figure that gets the process at least somewhat figured out… It I can get to be a little more gentle in the forming, refine a process and some different tools, I can I think get one with a lot more detail left on it. Big bonus is that all it costs to try is $0.25 😀 😉  

AlthoughI do have a few other coins of different denominations to play with too;



Categories: Brass, Custom, custom-made-tools, Frigid-Metals

EDC Update

My only EDC for the last ~3 days was the knife… So far today all it is, is the knife and my highly custom Olight i3S light.







The knife has obviously seen better days, but its also been well used, and generally well cared for.. The blades sharpened away with time, and slightly re-profiled as needed along the way. Its in pretty good shape actually, considering its age. ( Its about 90. 🙂

Categories: Brass, Custom, Daily-cary-log, knives

Misc. 7-4-14



A start to a tool kit for any future “carry on only” air travel I do;



Copper beads found homes;

A key chain fob for a friend for his birthday



And the small one found its way onto my copper swirl scaled RAT2. 😉





Categories: Beads, Brass, Custom, knives, Theory/Thoughts, tools-bit kit

Brass Body Tube For Rofis JR10

Made a brass body for my Rofis today.  Build pics/thread to follow later. LOTS of learning for me, I’d never turned threads before!  ONly took me 6.5 hours…






Categories: Brass, Custom, Flashlights

Misc Bead pictures.












































Categories: Beads, Brass

The Thor Pen

I now have a hammer, pen and 1/4” bit driver all in one!

I had an idea for a pen and decided to go ahead and try it as an add on to the one I already made last week. The idea was a cross section at the top to hold a 1/4” hex bit. 


First thing was seeing how small I could get a 1/4” hex driver turned down… Turned it as small as I could, then picked a close sied drill bit a couple thousadths under that and turned to to be about 0.001” to 0.0015” bigger for a press fit.




The head piece itself was going good till I miscalculated the bottom of the holes depth, and the dia for the center section to sit over the top hex on the pen… The plus side was I hit EXACTLY the same dia as the center hole for the insert. Cleaned up the ends and it slid tegether, just about 1/4” shorter than it had been.  I knew how to finsh it, but decided it wasn’t worth the work, and started anther head section.






Would have had to significantly shorted the insert and thuse the gripable depth of a hex bit too.



Version 2.0 came out a LOT longer, I gave myself plenty of material to work with for spacing the inserts hole, and the cross hole, offsets etc. Turned out too long for my tastes.










BUT, it all worked, proving the theory, and that I had the skill to do it…  only mistake was general spacing/length, and I sanded the insert too small to press fit, would have had to been epoxied in.

I went back and finished the 1st  one at this point, since it would be shorter.

I cross drilled it and pinned it together, then crossdrilled it for the pen shaft. It worked. Mostly. Not a clean look with the visible pin end, and the pin drifted and was a tad loose. Plus the shallow bit holder hole, and I decided not to use it.






I also crushed/mangled the insert when trimming it to length to fit the shorter 1st  head…  So, I made another insert from a 1/4” hex nut driver, and went back to the drawing board.

I fit the new insert to a super tight fit in the V2.0 head hole. Then trimmed both sides of that head down shorter, deepened the hole slightly, and press the sleeve in. Am verry proud of that, the precission turning that was needed to fit it! It can’t turn, and ain’t Ever comming out again!

So, the 3rd  and final version is actually the 2nd  one re-cut shorter.  It came out longer than the pinned 1st  version, but a lot shorter than it had started. I like it. Its semi press fit to the pen barrel, it can come off, but requies a bit of force, it won’t spin on it verry easily.   Had to shorten one of the pens outer sleeves/beads so it all goes together to the right length again.

There is no bit retension. I will go back later and center drill the bit holder pocket for a ~1/8” magnet to press in, IF it looks like I will actually use the driver more than once a year 😉 Otherwise its not worth the work at this point… I’ve already proved to myself that I could make what I started out to make. 😀 😉 

Anyway, I give you The Thor Pen! 










With the parts of the leftovers and misshaps;




Categories: Brass, Custom, custom-made-tools, Frigid-Metals, Lathe, Pens

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