The second half of my useless tool box conversion, the bottom half.
I had decided to try to maje a rolling yard cart, after seeing how close it was to perfectly fitting a milk crate.
Honestly, I only had one use in mind for this; A battery mover. Car and truck batteries aren’t very heavy. Unless tgeyre thr ones without handles, and yoh havr to carry it 50 yards. Then they’re heavy! Even with a carry handle, going very far is a pain.
It occurred to me that some left over CPVC pipe and fittings I had would assemble to a nice handle.
So, thats what I did.
The original door on this slid up and down in cfanels in the lower front wall. For whstever reason, they madr that lower wall in a separate piece from the rest of the box, it just snapped in. So I snapped it out;
Then it was simply setting the crate, and building filler/mount blocks around it. And also some plywood stiffeners for the back wall, to take the torque of the handle.
And then assembling and mounting the handle.
Along the way, I decided that a cord holder on the handle would be nice, like the setups on the back of vacuum cleaners. Was easy to add with cross bars and elbows.
Then I decided I wanted to paint the handle. Been using up some ancient cans of spray paint, so I chose one and went at the handle. 3 colors later I found a can that worked(most of this paint has frozen at least once, and is several years old… Thus my trying to use it up.).
Intended to only do the handle. Got carried away. 😉 At least, if nothing else, I won’t lose it in the yard!
Might go back and paint the crate and wheels black for some contrast. It’s just a bit bright for my taste!
But anyway, there it is. Didn’t buy a thing, all of it was scrap or hardware I had on hand.
Now to see if I ever actually use it. 😉
A ‘32 Ford Hot Wheels plus a big split ring equals a new key chain for a spare key for my truck–Which I need to get, right now only one key exists for it..
No mods to the car were needed, with no side windows in it, I just had to thread the ring through!
First time I’ve ever UN hot wired a vehicle! 😉
Back story is as follows; A buddy had his ATV stolen out of his yard in May. Insurance payed off and he got a new one… 3 weeks later, the troopers said “hey, we got your wheeler back”.
He’s run out of time for projects this summer, but would like to sell it to cover the difference between the cost of the new one and the insurance paid.
So, I’m putting it back together and selling it for him.
If it was a horse I’d say rode hard, put up wet… They didn’t baby it, but I wouldn’t say they thrashed it.
Needs a few things cleaned up, and put back together since they had started to strip it.
First up was fixing the hacked hot wire job. Then test ridding to make sure they didn’t screw the driveline etc.. It all works great!
Wiring like this isn’t too hard when you have a full wiring diagram to start with (free download of full factory service manual!)
And, your supplied with a new switch, and the proper plug for it. Got wire extension colors close on a couple…
Scrounged and shortened the harness wires for an aftermarket switch pod I’d bought for mine.
The harness wires to the switch had been cut so short I had to add something, but having them all one color would be a pain.
The next guy is going to wonder what the heck, but at least he won’t be fighting to track a wire in a bundle of all red or all black wires..
Couple days work on a few little cosmetic details and rewiring a winch, and then you should see it on Craigslist Fairbanks. 🙂
The previous parts of this saga, were;
The clutch going out.
A weight bushing and shaft worn, and a broken weight roller on the spider, jamming between weight and roller, late last fall.
Parked it for the winter.
Then this spring, I decided that if I took out the pivot shafycfir the weight, and that the weight couldn’t come out without disassembly of the clutch, it wouldn’t bind and jam, and should work on 3 weights.
Which it did, flawlessly.
For about 3 months.
Then it managed to get the magic amount of rpm, clearance, and weight orientation to throw the weight. About 3.5 weeks ago.
Turned out at that point, that when still “floating” in the clutch, even though the weight wasn’t helping engage the clutch, that it’s trapped weight/mass was balancing the clutch!
Horrendous vibration ensued, causing engine over heating, a high pitched hum, and increasing belt slipage. And eventually would no doubt eat engine bearings…
I rode it some for work around the homestead, but I’m the clutch slippage was getting worse every time I ran it.
So… part 4.
I decided to replace the weight shaft, and bushing, making both myself to save cost.
To add back the weight, but held in this time as intended to be, and eliminate the play that allowed it to bind up. The broken roller on the spider could wait a little while.
Being lazy won out over being broke. Twice. First time about 3 weeks ago, I was going to lathe turn a new pivot shaft.
Was easier to buy a new one.
This time I was going to make the bushing for the weight … Never had the time or drive to do it for over a week.
Found a atv/cycle parts place with amazingly reasonable shipping rates to Alaska (bikebandit.com).
Few days later I have shiny little parts!
Got 4 since everything online says you’ll crush a couple learning to press them in.
I used a new bushing over the old shaft, slid through the old bushing/weight, nut on top to act as a stop, and drove the old one out while seating the new one…
Slight bur created on end of new one trimmed out with a drill bit by hand. Took 5 min total, if that. And I have 3 bushings left!
If nothing else I have the bushings to later do the other 3 weights.
Then came instalation in the clutch.
REALLY wanted to do this without pulling the clutch off the engine. I bought a puller last winter, but there are a lot of horror stories about broken clutch pullers, and having to then cut the clutch up to get it off. If you got a cheap puller. I did get a cheap, but not the cheapest puller…
Couldn’t compress the clutch into the belt loop (as it does when the clutch is working, to open the area around the weight) as I had hoped I could, with clamps.
Suddenly realized I could enlarge that belt loop, and clearance in it, by letting the belt tighten on the secondary clutch!
Pry open secondary clutch, pull belt foreward, press primary clutch half inward, hold in place with clamp, insert weight, drive in new shaft(light press fit in clutch), install nuts, tighten.
Voila! That was amazingly easy. Not sure why, but God sure does like me!
plugged in the belt safety switch in the cover, wired the cover to the rack as high as possible, kept my leg out of the clutches for a short test ride in the yard (don’t try this at home kids).
NO MORE VIBRATION! Works like a DREAM!! Took less than an hour total! $50 max total spent, used a whopping $11 in parts!
If I’d known that could go that easy, I’d have gotten the parts and done it months ago!
Bolted cover on and rode it 10 miles; perfect! No vibration, no high pitch buzz, no belt slip, no motor over heating, good clutch engagement!!
Back to the way it was last year(yikes, hard to believe its been 10 months it first messed up!) before any of the clutch issues!!
Now, technically I still need to replace the clutch center spider, that houses the (broken)roller that the weight runs on.
But given how little wear there is on the weight compared to the rest of the worn parts, I think it is causing very little damage, very slowly.
I’m pretty sure it can wait a month or two of reasonable riding, for me to save the funds to get the spider, and build the tools needed to disassemble the clutch to change it.
I will also be periodically checking on the play in that weight on the shaft–
(and, as a side point it’s now the tightest of all four… the other 4 bushings could use done within a couple years m, I’m sure.)
–because, there is a section where the wear had eaten into the weight, that the new bushing is unsupported.
Probably be fine for a long time, but I’ll check it from time to time just to be sure.
Might just weld up that spot when I have it apart to do the spider. Or spring for a new weight. But unless it starts to bind again, I can’t see this causing any wear being a problem, for a while anyway.
I’ve also decided that even though it still looks great, this couldn’t have been good for the belt, and I gave no idea how old it is anyway. I’ll put a new belt on it as soon as I can afford it. Hopefully when I replace the clutch spider; Since the clutch has to come off to change the belt (what idiot thought that up??!?), and I’d like to minimize times I have to do that…
Hey guys/gals, just a heads up type thought; go check your tire pressure!
Last week I got ready to go for a ride, and did what I always do, always have; get on bike, and rolling forward hit the front brake hard; front shock compresses, and weight hits front tire hard. Watch front tire, and if it deflects/bulges, I check air pressure.
I started that years ago with dirt bikes, and then my Rebel 250 street bike…
As i recall, several pounds low and they’d show it. Apparently the tires on my V-Star are a lot stiffer of a side wall!
As I said, I did that test this last week and had the tire flatten a little. So I checked them.
Rear was 10 psi!
Front wouldn’t read at all!!
So, I’ve been ridding on basically FLAT TIRES. Thankfully God is gracious, and it hasn’t killed me!
Aired them up, and the bike rolls better by hand than it has in a LONG time. Now when I clutch to shift while moving, it will roll faster, where before it would slow/drag. (Be interesting to see how much this improves my gas milage!)
Talk about stiff side wall tires! Run flat is an understatement! Apparently they’re just so stiff my little test has never really worked on this bike.
Lesson learned. I’ll now gauge check pressure every month, and seasonally when the bike comes out of storage(yeah, should have been doing that anyway).
Can you imagine a tire run too low suddenly shifting or rolling sideways on the rim at highway speed?
Or for instance, a couple weeks before this, a moose ran out in front of me. I locked front and rear brakes and slid 20ish feet in a basically straight line at 60mph (didn’t know I could do that!).
If the tire had flattened then, or rolled sideways?
Option on hitting moose; bad enough…
Tire coming off rim binding up the wheel and cartwheeling me and the bike through the moose; uhuh…
GO CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURE!!