ATV

ATV Rifle mount.

A buddy thought the way another bud and I wore our rifles slung across out chests on the quads for hunting last fall was a little sketchy… (it was at times, but worked good) so he bought both of us gun boots and bracket kits for Christmas! 

I’m not fond of this concept, it seems like it’d be a super slow access(while the moose gets away) and it would IMO inhibit leg/ridding area… heaven forbid you need off that side of the wheeler Fast, like in a roll over..  BUT, I’ll give it a fair shake, and try it! 

 Anyway, I finally got mine mounted.

  

It looks high, but the butt ends sits lower than my head height ridding. Put it in the best compromise I could get for low, inboard of the fenders, out of my leg area, and leaving rack space, all while actually having rack to bolt to. 

Need to drill a couple extra holes in the bottom plate towards the front(by the big round hole) to u-bolt it to that front rack bar. But it’s already pretty dang solid. 

Dropped a rifle in and went ridding for an hour after I got it on there, trails, mud, and bushwacking, it stayed 99% as solid. 
It was also amazingly out of the way! 

Still not sure what it’d do to a fast get off on that side, but let’s pray I never have to find out! 😉

Need to look in my hardware bins, want to replace the nut on the angle adjust bolt with a big knob, and a wing nut over it (tighten knob, then jam nut lock it with the wing nut) for easier angle adjusting, if I need the butt end lower to go under downed trees etc. (Will weld the bolt to the bracket to make it a one hand/no hold wrench operation.).

Categories: Adventures, Alaska-Life, ATV, Guns, Modifications, New Gear, Outdoors, Vehicles | Leave a comment

And again!


That’s the third time I’ve gotten stuck in the SAME FREAKING SPOT!! This time I was fine till I slipped one foot off a running board (ridding sitting up on one knee for side weight ballance) it was either slow down or drag my leg into the burm… Problem is I had to do it before the engine cleared the burm.  High centered, no traction in 4′ of powder. 😒😧😭 At least it’s in my yard… but still… Really? I mean, REALLY? UGH. 

A friend has suggested it’s time to EDC a winch… Which is funny since I do have two brand new AT winches sitting here waiting for another project. And I’ve thought in the past about rigging one on the sled.

 The problem is that the sled doesn’t have electric start, so it doesn’t have a battery. I can add a battery, but it also isn’t set up to Charge a battery… And these winches will EAT a battery fast without something charging on them to keep up.  

 I Hate electrical work, so I never get around to doing this. But If I keep getting stuck this often, I might just force myself to figure it out!! 😉

Categories: Adventures, Alaska-Life, ATV, Outdoors, Vehicles, Winter, Woods tools

ATV 2″ front receiver, and plow mount.

Wanted to modify my snow plow from my ridding mower to fit the Prairie 360. The plow mount got partly crushed in storage in the yard a few winters ago, so it hadn’t been used, and couldn’t be used anyway… No loss to cut up what was left of the mounting. 

But I wanted an easy, fat quick disconnect from the ATV, that also didn’t reduce my ground clearance like most factory mounts do.

  Good time to build the front receiver hitch that I’d thought would be handy anyway!
5 evenings work, 4 or 5 hours each, and two designs later; 

Bought a couple more U bolts than what I had (and the 2 U bolts were all I had to buy, the rest was already on hand!) And mounted;

The plate is welded at an angle to the receiver  tube, and sits flat on the frame tubes, which the u bolts go around. The tube is also butted against a frame cross bar at its rear, with a tab at the top sitting on the frame cross bar.  The front also bolts through a cross bar of the bumper.

Thus inward push is directly on the frame in two areas, and it’s protected from twisting up and down, and side to side.  It’s terribly over built, 1/8″ and 1/4″ thick plates and tube… Heavier than most truck hitch mounts. 

And, recessed in the stock front skid plate;

The plow mount uses a inner receiver piece, welded to the mount plate for the plow, which then bolts as it did with the tractor, to the plow pivot plate, which the plow angle bracket, and plow itself pins to.   Before, the plate and pivot would stay on the tractor,  and you understand pin it at the vertical joint. 

I have it so that stays pinned, and the  rear half of the mount will just pull from the 2″ receiver.  

One bonus I gain on this setup, is the plow mount plate receiver piece, is bolted to the plow plate… I can make anything I want to mount to that plate, just match the bolt pattern. Gives a send level of interchangeable mounts if I need it. 

I still need to add a vertical “tower” just in front of the vertical pivot, run up higher than the winch, with a pulley for the cable, to be the angle of lift force correct, and minimize winch strain.  

But it works pretty good!  It’s a little light on the plow, I’ll be adding a heavier cutting edge for durability and added weight (4′ of 1/8″x4″ steel plate). 

The power angle system I’m building for it will also add some weight, should dig in nice with that on it. (More details on that later! ☺) 


As a side note, since it does look like a light setup, especially for our winters; I don’t figure to so all my plowing with it. 

I have a 3/4 ton truck and two heavy duty plows for my yard, driveway, and our road if needed.   But I also have areas around the yard, garage, etc that the truck doesn’t fit into, or where I can’t get it at an angle to push away from the buildings etc.   The ATV on the other hand will maneuver these areas.  

I plan to do those hard areas with the ATV, then in between big snowfalls where I’ll use the truck, I can maintain the walkways, and parking areas etc with the ATV. It’ll be easier for the light 3″ or 4″ max. snowfalls.  😎

Categories: Alaska-Life, ATV, Automotive Work, Custom, custom-made-tools, Fabrication, Improviser, Modifications, New Gear, Outdoors, tool mods, Vehicles, weather and seasons, Welding, Winter, Wrenching

ATV winch mount fabrication, and installation.

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So, the mounting holes on the winch are 4″ on center…. Yeah. My bigass huge piece of angle iron I was gonna use ain’t big enough.

Dug around and came up with a piece of square tube wide enough to cut wider angle iron from. 

Fits the frame perfect too, and I mean PERFECT, it’s 1/4″ shorter than the opening is wide, and 1/8″ for height and depth. Minimal cutting required!  Bonus, it’s 1/4″ stock instead of 3/8″, making cutting and drilling I do need Much nicer.

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What I planned to use for mounting; two 1/2″ grade 8 bolts, and one 5/8″ grade 8… But, with my apparent poor organization(poorer than I thought!) I couldn’t find a drill bit bigger than 1/2″ 😒:(😬 So, two bolts it is! 😉

Honestly it’ll be fine, the factory supplied install bolts for the winch itself are grade 5 or lighter, and 5/16″. And there are only two of those…

Yeah, two 1/2″ grade 8 s for the bracket are fine. ;)😅

So. The design kept evolving as I went… got simpler in some ways, but more complex in others.

I was going to cut the square tube down to an  L angle, and stick with the initial style  I’d designed.

But,  then I figured I could cut it to an uneven U , the winch on the back taller arm, and bolt the fair lead(roller cable guide) on the front shorter one, saving me from having to fabricate another mount bracket for the fair lead. 

Then I realized that the tube fit the frame area so perfectly, and that the tube form would be less likely to twist/torque/bend under winch load.

And further, that when in place, the top front corner would hit the bumper cross bars back side… So if it did torque foreward, that would stop it, and stop it from twisting on the mount bolts.

PERFECT! Simpler form, less pieces, better function!

But… Then that meant I’d have to, do all the layout and alignment, drilling, setup on one piece, at once… making layout being more precise, more important. It also meant cutting a feed hole for the cable in the tube wall.
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Which is what you see here. 😉 Actually turned out not to be as bad to cut as I thought it’d be.

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And, there it is. Drill 6 holes, two bottom for mounting,  two rear for the winch inside, and two front for the fair lead, plus the big hole cut for the cable.

At this point, I got tired of working bent over, and squatting… Dug out some wheel ramps, that coupled with the driveway being 8″ higher than the shop floor, got the whole wheeler up where I could save my back and legs some wear.

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(Supposed to work smarter not harder, right? 😆 )

And assemble. THAT was a pain, getting at the inner end of the winch mount bolts inside the tube.  Found out I didn’t leave enough room, the heads of the mount to frame bolts won’t fit under the winch.. :(😒

And realized that to get it mounted in the frame, even If the bolts fit, I’ll have to do the winch install IN position in the frame….

Thought I’d do it half assembled and put it in the frame… Nope! Won’t fit through the frame/bumper with the winch in the tube. :?😥😩

Took the bolts to the grinder and made the heads half as thick. Probably only grade 7 bolts now ;)😜.

That fixed that.

Over an hour later, of fit, re fit, etc later, it’s in and all hooked up! Had to install the cable to the motor… but couldn’t spool it on without the motor mounted, so I did the install with the cable hanging loose. Got the cable into the spool mount hole, crimped the wire nut… THEN realized that the cable needed to go through the tube side hole and fair lead.  Oh, yeah… cable go out the front. Right. I knew that.. 😒 😉

I finished the install, actually twice, because I pinched the cable behind the lowest mount bolt the first time… (probably what I get for not quitting at midnight… long days tend to breed little mistakes in groups at the end..)

Then fed all 50′ of cable up through the tube end and out the front… through the fair lead without one of its rollers so the hook would fit. 😆 (think outside the box!)

Gotta say, I was real glad I had it up on ramps for that… I did it sitting on the ground under the nose/axle etc, which wasn’t real comfortable,  but it put the winch etc at chest/face level and easy to see/reach most of it.

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And, it’s all in!  😎
Now, I was going to test fit everything,  take it back out and paint it, then reinstall… But even without all the little complications,  it really is a pain in the butt to get in there… Not happening now! 

I might.. MIGHT,  mask off the oil cooler behind it and the winch motor, and paint it in place later. Maybe.

A couple details.
With the wheels turned all the way to the left, it looks like the tire will hit the motor… It won’t. Got a couple inches clearance. 

And, it also looks like I covered part of the oil cooler, but it just covers the lower 1/2″ of the mounts and mesh for it… the cooler itself is even with the top of the tube,  or only about 1/8″ lower.

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Categories: ATV, Automotive Work, Custom, Fabrication, Modifications, Outdoors, Vehicles, Wrenching

Sugru to the rescue!

My more permanent fix for the ATV ignition switch nut that I ruined; Sugru!

For those that don’t know, Sugru is a moldable glue… Think a cross between super glue and silly putty. Or like a really thick moldable silicone RTV/gasket maker.

It’s a silicone putty or dough that comes in a packet, form it however you need and in 24 hours it cures to become a rubber. Sticks to almost anything, waterproof, electrically insulated, good to 265°F and -45°F, holds a fair amount of weight, and comes in about 15 colors! (And I just found out you can mix it to blend infinite colors- wish I’d known that before I did this fix, I could have matched the green fenders closer!)

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A fellow on edcforums.com got me one of their home hacks starter kits for the secret santa gift exchange this last December.

A great idea to get me, since I tend to improvise and MacGyver things a lot…

But amazingly, it’s taken me this long to find a use for it! (The stuff takes 24 hours to set up, and I either need a Now fix, or If I have 24 hours,  I can use a stronger, more traditional adheasive.. )  But this ti.e, a more traditional adhesive wouldn’t have held/set fast enough, nor would the automotive standard, RTV silicone gasket maker.  And super glue wouldn’t be strong enough…

As I said, a perfect place for Sugru, and I even had green to (almost) match the fenders! Used a whole pouch, to get a good “bead” diameter on it, for hold and a smooth look.

My theory is since it’s rubber, to take it off the next time, I can run a razor blade between the Sugru and the fender.

Then make a cut, say 1/8″ wide out of the ring, and peel it off the switch.. Then to reapply it, simple place it on the switch (it will have the threads molded into the inner curve for hold) and re sugru the gap I cut out, back together.

Even if its really stuck to the switch (it probably is!) And I have to cut it away from it, I’ll still have a rubber ring that can be reapplied with silicone RTV, or more Sugru. ☺

I will have to re label the off/on, since the wiring tension on the switch meant it wouldn’t stay rotated(and actually wouldn’t let it turn completely thete)to the right place.  But that’s a simple fix, if I can find our label maker… If not, I’ll make a stencil and air brush it on; still simple.  😎

Categories: ATV, Automotive Work, Improviser, MacGyver, MacGyverism, Modifications, Sugru, Vehicles

A little teaser for things to come soon.

Next step; fabricate winch motor mount brackets/plate. 😎

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Categories: ATV, Custom, Fabrication, Modifications, Vehicles

Channeling my inner MacGyver again.

There wad Only one casualty to the wiring project… The nut for the ignition switch wouldn’t budge to get it out of the fenders. At All. 😩:?😬

I had to Dremel notches in it, and take it off in pieces… but that left me with no nut to reinstall with…

It’s about a 1.125″ threaded shaft, and probably metric thread. I have a LOT of hardware on hand but nothing like that.

Macgyver would be proud! ;)😎  Biggest section of the old nut, and a tripled up rubber band works pretty solid for now, until I can get a more permanent solution. 😆

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Yeah, its jerryrigged and redneck bush Alaskan, but it works! 😉

Gonna work for a while too, since the hardware store I hit (Lowe’s ) didn’t have anything bigger than 5/8″, or a rate 3/4″ nut… (Really?)

I’ll think of something… eventually. ;)😎

Categories: Alaska-Life, ATV, Custom, Improviser, MacGyver, MacGyverism, Modifications, Vehicles, Wrenching

So, a little ATV wiring…

What I gouged my hands up doing… installing winch control wiring on my ATV.

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From the switch on the handle bars, down to a keyed hot to actuate the switch relay; I got that on a accessory wire that was under the front fenders.

Then winch main switch wires back along the inside of the frame to the relay box I put at the battery.

And that relay box turned out to be too big to fit where I wanted it next to the battery… (ALWAYS check your plans before running the wires! LOL )

Took apart the box, and sure enough it’s a wired set of relays, all bundled up stuffed in a water tight box… with twice the air space wasted..

I chucked the box 😉 and the bundle fit perfectly in the battery compartment. 

THEN did it all over again;
running the hot wires from the battery foreward along the same path to the front bumper for the winch motor.

Whole thing only took about 4.5 to 5 hours, including reassembling the fenders… Yeah. Plus 1 hour before hand just chasing the accessory wires to begin with..  

FUN. 😉

Easiest part was taking apart the front and taking the fenders off… actually amazed me how easy it is to get the plastic off this quad! (2009 Kawasaki Prairie 360)

And it is amazing, the owners manual says there are accessory wires at the rear, under the fender by the tool box (actually great, two sets, one constant power, and one keyed power!) But doesn’t mention the front set of wires.

And the service manual doesn’t mention Either set!  Except on the wiring diagrams, the rear set is marked.

EDIT; ok, I found the front set on the wiring diagrams in the service manual… It’s either the provided wires for the non-USA model speedometer,  or the non-USA and non-Canada Horn. (Really? A stock horn on an ATV? That’d be cool! 😆😎)

Given the location, and that it lacked a green signal wire for the speedometer,  I think it’s the horn wires.

Categories: Alaska-Life, ATV, Automotive Work, Modifications, Vehicles, Wiring, Wrenching

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