Adventure Metal Works
The entire build, in order, more or less; 🙂
I could go through everything I did here in long descriptions, and pictures, but it’s not really necessary, and probably not that interesting either. But here is a general run through. 🙂
- Pick out a piece of 1″x8″ x 5′ oak
- cut out the pattern
- trace it on the wood
- Jig saw one upright
- Sand the contour
- Trace #1 to get #2 the same
- Cut, sand #2
- Measure and mark for the mortises
- Round the edges with a router
- Cut pilot groove on blade end to guide cutting the blade slots
- Locate blade mount holes, drill
- Cut blade slots
- Cut the mortise on #1
- Rip the cross bar from the board
- Square and measure it all for proper cross bar length vs blade length mounted (crucial for proper end angles when blade under tension, and good looks)
- Cut and fit the tenon on #1 end
- Cut #2 mortise and tenon
- Test assemble
- Find cord for windlass(I was out of 550! Finally found some heavy clothes line cord..)
- Trim scrap to use as temporary windlass bar
- Tighten it all up and do a test cut(worked!)
- Cut thinning profile on cross bar
- Sand cross bar, and route edges
- Discover binding in tenon joints, trim
- Re-trim/fine tune joints
- Assemble and do a test cut again
- Find that I over trimmed the joints, it will now start to slip from a H to a parallelogram-ed H under tension. (Rounded the wrong corners too much; you need the Top corners of the bar end and tenon tips rounded for slip, but the bottom corners left square for rigid support, so the can only pivot in at the top, but not out at the top!)
- Discover that if it slips, the windlass slips down the bars, loses tension and it falls apart.
- Discover, by clamping the cord in place under tension, that, thankfully, If the windlass doesn’t slip down when it flexes out of H shape, it doesn’t collapse!
- Locate for windlass cord supports
- Cut pins from 1/4″ copper rod,
- Drill and press fit copper as cord supports.
- Re-assemble, tighten, test cut 7″ birch log.
- Success! (With one about 1/8″ of flex at the joints out of square- good enough)
- Decide the scrap your using as a windlass bar works great, no use to make another one
- Trim, round, sand the windlass bar.
- Disassemble, wood burn the saws name, and my product line name on the side.(not selling it, but figured, meh, why not? )
- Also burn in witness marks to identify/match mortise and tenon joints in their matched pairs for proper future assembly.
- 2 day break to get stain and oil finish.
- Counterbore for recessed T nuts
- Install T nuts, pin in place with tiny Brad nails
- Install keeper ring on windlass bar
- Turn down bolt heads, and threads to fit in wingnuts, making wing bolts.
- Test the stain, find it won’t penetrate the oak dark enough, skip using it.
Part 4 coming soo. 🙂
I’m proud of two big things on this project;
One being design and execution. The basic mechanics of the saws are really, well, basic. Two uprights, a center cross bar, blade at the bottom, and a Spanish windlass at the top.
And the cross bar being mortise and tenon jointed to the uprights, to provide up/down pivot so that the windlass can tension the blade, but have no twist of pivot in any other plane or axis.
I looked around the Web for ideas, since there are a LOT of these out there, for sale, and home built designs.
But I basically still had to design, engineer and build it from scratch.
Lots of time with measuring, squaring, offseting, re-squaring, and making sure both ends matched.. Etc.
The other thing I’m really proud of, is the fact that I’d Never, Ever cut a mortise and tenon joint before. I did one test mortise on scrap(which sucked!) before I cut on the first saw bar I’d just spent 3 hours making. Yeah, fun. 😉
Cut by hand, chisel and saw. Turned out exceptionally well, if I do say so myself!
The second one even press fit at first cuttings, no trimming needed!! (The first one took 10 minutes of fit/test/shave/test/carve/test/whittle, to get to work, then it was a touch loose…)
Now I know why my Dad hated doing them, and always wanted a power tool for it! I was never taught to cut these, not that I remember. He never got the tool till late in life– he just avoided the joint style.
I actually got him one that attaches to a drill press a couple years before he passed away. It didn’t exactly fit his drill, and he never got to use it before he went. I have them both here, but ironically, I preferred to learn to hand cut them. I’ll get the tool setup at some point soon, but so far, I like doing them by hand!
I Was a bit ambitious in part of my joint design; I copied ones I saw a guy on YouTube do, where the end of the bar is rounded, and the face of the mortise is curved to match. So that when it tensions, and the end bars angle, it simply rotates the two curves on each other. A cleaner look than with straight bars, where the angling would leave gaps.
THAT was fun to figure out the geometry on, and then cut in… Oi.
I didn’t get them perfect, but they’re pretty dang good, if I do say so myself.
This obe is otherwise known as The Moon Saw. That name to be explained later though. 🙂
I’ve been wanting to do this project for a couple months now. Took a while to get other things out of the way… Pressing household maintenance like broken water tanks, and no running water kept cropping up! (Among other little things that Eat time).
I knew I wanted to do a 24″ saw, so I went and picked up a blade early last month. I actually got a whole swede saw. A blade was $8. A Fiskars saw with the blade was $11. Yeah, might as well buy the $3 saw with it, and have it!
Then it took a month for me to get time, and some shop space made to do it.
I neded some large paper for patterning another project, so I sat down and started drawing designs. I could have gone with dead simple straight side/handle bars, and been a LOT simpler and easier…
Bug I figured if I was going to do it, I might as well do what I liked.
The one I built is actually the second design I had drawn, and while the other was thought out over 3 days, this one I drew and finalized in 10 minutes. And liked it more!
(Original design on left, axe style on right)
You can see where the name comes from, if you notice the fawns foot handle ends, and “S” shapes. I had my hatchet handle on the bench at the time, and was holding it, such a nice grip; So I traced it, reversed it, traced again, and blended the contours some.
More to be seen soon.
Had this thought while turning beads last night, I’ve seen others do this, and I used to do a few when my beads included modified cartridge cases. Bored one end of a pair of my medium sized aluminum beads out larger. Forms a snug fit over a knot tied in a single strand of u-gutted 550 cord.
(Yes I know I need to re-trim the flash on those holes… I somehow missed it before polishing them.)
I need to play with the hole size. See if I can get one big enough in this metal stock, to fit over a knot of two strands of gutted 550. So that they could be put on loops of 550 cord.
I know I can fit that into my magnum beads, but I’m not sure it can fit in this “large” size and leave material for much of an outer design.
Also need to try it in my “small” sized beads, a hole size combo that will fit micro cord knots.
Went to the shop to do a few things last night, only got one done. I got side tracked with other ideas… “What ideas?” you ask? I’m glad you did! 🙂
Coming soon to a sales page, to be announced soon as well. 🙂
Got 4″ of powder last Thursday night, finally enough to try out the ATV plow!
I built the mount, and had it all ready in early October of 2016. But the night I finished it, and went to test ride with it mounted, is the night the clutch went out. I didn’t know what to do with the clutch until spring of 2017, so the wheeler and plow sat unused all winter. I never got to try the plow until this weekend!
SO, Anyway, I used the Prairie to plow my yard and driveway Friday. Works great!
One small section of drive plowed;
Took about the same amount of time as it does with my truck… Truck moves more in one pass, but takes more time to maneuver…
The wheeler is smaller, easier to turn and has better visibility. But not as much power or blade size to move a lot at once. 50/50-90 kinda thing. I’ll break it up from now on, truck for large bulk areas, wheeler for the tight spaces, trimming up.
Did have one problem. The plow doesn’t have an upward stop for lifting the blade… Just where you stop the winch. So if you go too far, it just keeps pulling. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if you have it all the way up or not.
Broke some welds on the mount pulling it up too far. Will need to re-weld that, and make some sort of positive stop that hits the bumper or something, so I can tell for sure when to stop the winch..
I’m thinking just a upward angled bar braced off the plow, that would hit the bumper, and be a solid stop I’d feel. Maybe have it high enough that I could see it… Something like that.
Got the main mount piece with the breaks inside melting/drying out now, will get it done and back on in the morning, so I can plow the new 2″ or 3″ tomorrow afternoon.
I’m really not surprised it broke… I’m only semi professionally trained at welding, still not real good at it, and this was done with a rather light welder for steal this heavy…
And it was being torqued at this area by a 2000# winch, with about 3′ of leverage added… It simply tried to hinge on the welds and sheared them, and is now hinging/flexing others.
Looks like I missed welding straight across the back edges too, which would be a lot of loss of strength against pull in this direction.. Whoops.
I’m actually happy it broke where it did. This piece is a 2″ receiver hitch mount, that goes into a 2″ receiver tube mounted on the wheeler. Breaking at the female side on the wheeler would have been a Lot bigger of a pain to fix!
And the plow itself hinges onto this piece. Breaking the plow side would have been worse too, mainly for being able to get it into my heated shop where the bigger welder is set up, and I’d probably have gad to do a lot more re-engineering if part of that broke.
All in all, if it was going to break, it’s the best area for it.
This time I’ll full box all 4 edges where the two pieces stack, maybe drill a couple holes in one and plug weld it down to the 2″ square tube… Maybe add a cross plate above the tube. And use a much bigger welder for more penetrating heat.
Yeah, apparently forgot to paint it against rusting before I parked it last year too…
Anyway, onward to custom plow mounting 2.0!
Got tired of having to strap/hold stuff down, especially for the fast 50 yard, or even 50 foot jaunts around the property. Thought it’d be nice to just trow something on and not worry about it sliding/bouncing off.
Thought “oh yeah, they make those walls for the racks” but I ain’t got, nor willing to pay $60 or more for one.
$5 in welder wire, scrap scrounged steel, and 6 or 7 hours over a couple evenings is a lot cheaper and easier! And more fun too!
Gotta be one of THE coolest tools I’ve bought. It’s astounding how handy a cordless angle grinder can be, especially with a cutting wheel!
It’s amazing what you can do with 2 grinders , 2 cutters , and a welder, some old furniture, with a little imagination. 😎😉👍
Needed some medium weight tubing, and finally saw an old futton/couch thingy frame in my scrap pile.
Pulled a loose slat out, and it was sturdy but not too heavy, seemed heavy enough (both durable, and thick enough to weld).
Cutt all the slats out of one side, got 12, 23″ pieces.
Trimed, striped paint from ends for joints, measure, layout, bent some corners (2nd set of corners I did butt joints, for ease of layout/assembly, but it wasn’t as nice a finish).
Cut and welded it all up in two evenings.
Those corner clamps are made for cabinetry & carpentry , but are a gift from God for layout and holding while welding too! Makes me wonder why I never though to use them for this before.
It took about 11 of the pieces total. 10.5 really, but one piece I have left is 23″ worth of short chunks, not a whole piece. Have one whole one left. But I also have another 12 left to be cut from the other half of the couch frame!
Yes, it looks tall, but that’s only about 6″ which sounds short to hold things in place. But it’s what I found was average for the factory and aftermarket sets of these walls, so that’s what I went with. Still sounds short, but looks tall to me.. But I like it.
Here, mostlt finished, painted and mounted, with the accessory mounters secret weapon(amazing what you can hold down with u-bolts, and also the strength/secureness they have).
That might seem light duty for this, but you have to remember that the rear rack capacity is only about 130 pounds, and I’ll be strapping anything big/bulky/heavy to the rack itself, not the wall.
Here you can see the contrast in the corner styles.
It does get two more things before it’s really completely finished;
Some holders/brackets at the front corners for a removable front cross bar. And some mesh walls all the way around, IF I can scrounge some cheap or free mesh.
I might go back and grind/smooth some of the rougher welds too. 🙂
Really liked this one, it was a challenge, needing to not only design and build, but keep everything true, straight, and square so it would all line up. Had to tweak it a couple times, even cut, bend and re weld the widened cut (sorta like a pleated spot?)once to take twist out.
Was a fun challenge welding round tubing too, hadn’t done that before. Also uphill/downhill, and upside down, sideways, and various angled welding, which I’ve not done a lot of.