Picked this up last weekend on sale, I was curious, and for $35, figured it was a small risk.
It’s the old concept of a power screwdriver, remember those from the 90s? Even in the early 2000s when cordless tools were gaining ground and power those things were still basically useless.
Somewhere I have one thats about 9v, that came with my big 18v Dewalt drill, circa 2006. That drill was a power house, a monster at driving screws for construction… The screwdriver, not so much. Not exactly useless… But then the tool itself was too big to really be handy.
Batteries and motors sure have come a long ways!
This thing is only 4V, but it has a surprising amount of torque, and so far great run time IMO for its size.
Built in battery, an oddity these days, came with a wall wart w/cord that charges it.
My main idea was for automotive work, where you can have lots of little screws, a slow pain by hand, but an impact driver is overkill, or won’t fit.
So far I’ve had great fun with it installing a bunch of door knobs and latch plates at work, removing and installing cabinet hinges, and even driving some small 1.25″ construction screws(amazingly well even without pilot holes!) .
Finally a compact power screwdriver that works as needed! Its a keeper!
One nifty feature, is the onboard rotating bit storage. Has a little door that covers it. Came with bits in it! Little magnet on top next to it to hold screws or bits is actually kinda handy too.
Wish my big 20v impact drivers had that bit storage magazine! Thinking they could do it in brushless tools and still be pretty compact.
Included a very nice, long USB-C cable. So many lights and things come with a 3″ cable anymore, this was a nice surprise. You can actually get it onto a table or the floor to charge it, instead of dangling it from the outlet.
Fresh from the box;
First thoughts; heavy!
Second; well, it should be durable…
I’d swear the thing is solid metal cased, but it says ABS. It’s built like a tank! I’m sure it weighs twice what my Spirit does, heavier than any other light I have. Big 2600mAh battery has to be heavy too.
Its Big enough I’d bet its two 18650s in there.
Definitely Not a pocket carry light!
Flashlight modes are 200 and 50 lumens.
Flood light is 400, 160, 12.
The outputs all look right to me, except I’d swear the flood low is 30 or 40… but its a soft flood, wide area, guess it could look brighter than I’m used to 12 being.
The flashlight is one big smooth spot… no real discernible hotspot, bug I wouldn’t call it a flood beam… in between concepts.
Its a rather easy interface, although I find the button a little hard to “read”. Easy to press, but its… odd. Its a soft click button under a hard rubber cover. Hard start to the press then the switch clicks fast… hard to describe. Works fine just feels different than the average flashlight switch.
Single click on/off, click to cycle modes(only within 3sec of on, after that clicks off or swap between emitters) Long press to change between emitters.
Little odd that the flashlight starts in high then low. But on the work light/COB it goes medium, high, low. No memory, always starts the same.
Does memory the emiter your on though… so if you turn it off in flashlight mode it comes back on in that.
Charging is done by the verry handy built in USB plug, and thankfully in the new C standard, matching my phone and another light; less cords to keep track of!
Came charged to 3/4 charge indictors. Took 20 mintues to go to 4/4. Like the indicator, nice feature, always on with either emitter on. Odd break down of percentages per the manual(4 lights actually means 95%+ not 100%), but honestly who cares that much, its a good rule of thumb for not running it dead, better as you use a light more, learn how long you have left once it hits 1 or 2 indicators.
Magnets aren’t as strong as I expected. Small and wide spread on the loop, its going to need a large area to stick to, to be stable. I stuck it up to the door pilar in my truck and its rock solid, not going to move.
Stuck to flats on a 1″ steel bar with just two magnets in line, and it would shift depending on what angle you had it open; weight distribution. And I’m not 100% sure it’d stay there fully upside down..
Can see that being an issue in more creative spaces where you might not have a place to get the balance right for where you need light… time will tell I guess.
On the flip side, smaller and weaker they’re not going to collect near as much metal dust/debris in a tool bag.
The carabiner clip is… not bad, but different; the gate opens outwards. Works fine, just not what you expect.
Nifty bonus, the halo ring around the COB is GITD.
Only thing I would really like to have seen is a rotating joint where the light body meets that hinge. So many more options for aiming it then. Again, time will tell if its really an issue or not.
Overall, so far, I’m very happy with it! Light function is fine, and the build seems great!
For the $28 I paid shipped, I think its a good value. Wish it was a bit less, @ around $25 point I’d get a couple more of them. $35 is the standard price online for this color, $40 for other colors. That much each is a bit much for multiples, but that’s me being picky about $10 lol… I think its definitely worth the ~$30.
They do a few colors, green, blue, orange, yellow, and I think black. Looks like the green is the standard/basic, as I said it costs a little less everywhere, so thats what I got.
Pulled and repaired the carburetor on my truck last night.
Some yutz at Carter/Webber decided that these single barrel carbs should be made in three pieces(which, I’m told was/is common!) Having an extra layer for the bottom flange/main butterflies as compared to Any 2 or 4 barrel I’ve ever seen, where the flange and mains are integral to the bowl..
Anyway, as odd as a 3rd layer is, the assinine part is having all 4 screws go UP through the flange into the body… All the spaces but one are exposed flange on the body section, NO reason they couldn’t thread down into the lower piece. But No!
SO, it the ever vibrate loose, you not only can’t get at them to tighten them with the carb installed, they can fall the frack out!
Thankfully none of these came all the way out, but 3/4 were backed out a long ways.
Ran interesting with the carb loose above the mains! Way too lean, but not consistently.
Couldn’t get at more than one to tighten it, so I pulled the whole carb. Easiest carb removal and replacement I’ve ever done. Including the drive to warm it up first(no heat in the shop) for working on it, and the test drive after, this took 1.5 hours flat! Found the main mounting stud nuts loose as well. (and two different sizes of nut lol) But side intake on a straight 6 sure makes it easy to get at!
I checked the threads, they all went in fine, seated good. I fully removed all 4 and put them back with blue Loctite! Not usually advisable on such small screws, or on carbs, its just asking for broken or stripped screws… But I didn’t want to have to deal with this again anytime soon, and since I did it, I’ll know its there, shouldn’t get into trouble. AND the blue is designed to be removable… using Red loctite would be suicidal here..
Fixed a lot of issues I’d had since mid summer, and a few that were new.. Got rid of the hard miss it’d developed in Aug. Hopefully it fixes the tank my milage developed then too! Recent rough idle/dieing/lope smoothed out, and having to pump the hell out of it to get it to start was new, that went away too! More power than its had in months, and none of the recent dieseling on shut down.
Looks like this is a remanufactured carb in recent history, or else I’d have done a rebuild… Its actually a made in USA Carter made for Motorcraft, so a stock Ford part… With a rebuilt by Holley sticker on it.. Stock carb that was sent in as a core and came back somewhere in its life. Up until mid summer it really did run great. Assuming the carb itself is fine. It did leak a little at air horn to bowl/body, but I tightened those screws too. If it continues to leak noticably, I’ll put main body gaskets in it this summer, won’t touch the rest..
This months OKC22 challenge is collecting and lighting 5 natural tinders with ferro rod. I cant stand ferro rods, and dont use them. I find real flint and steel faster and easier!
As far as I knew, I didn’t own one, other than the blast match style ine a friend gave me, thats in my ATV hunting gear… cant strike that with the knife.
Then I remembered this little guy I made, a 3/16″ rod set in a muley deer tine with a scraper years ago..
Figured I’d try that, but its a short shower of sparks, and hard to use with a bigger knife..
Then, I happened onto pics I had of a bigger ferro rod I’d forgotten. If I still had it. Found it quite by accident after giving up, looking for something else lol. Was getting ready to remove the handle and replace with something better, when I got deja vu…
Went and dug around and found the one I started to do that to like 4 years ago… Went ahead and did that one instead.
One of my peeves with these things is the ever epic short grip. So I grabbed a block of curly maple(close enough to the curly oak on the knife) , drew out a design and put a nice sized grip on it.
Wanted as much rod length exposed as possible, found it a super tight fit in 9/32″ brass tube(hammered in, it is NOT coming out). Fit 1/4″ into the tube, then 2″ of the tube set in the wood handle. Extended the rod reach, and in theory when its used up(if ever) I can remove the stub, add a new rod to the handle.
Could have cut/carved/sanded, but I went and put it in the metal lathe.
Siting here with a first coat of wipe on poly drying. 🙂
Got out the stones, went through all 4 up to translucent Arkansas
Usually I finish with a trip to the power strop(buffing wheel) but didn’t bother here, it was alrwady verry fine and smooth, no bur to speak of. Don’t need laser fine edge right now, maybe later.. will see how it carves.
I entered this intending to use a new knife I had on order. But then they were delayed, wasn’t sure if it would come in time… So I chose the Damascus scandi intending to use my one free swap later.
Now I have the other newcone(details to be posted soon), and couls swap, But I think I’m staying with the scandi… I made this knife over 15 years ago, and its had little to no use.. Might as well get to use it, especially since bushcrafty stuff us what I made it for!
Need to make a sheath of some sort too. It use to be in a hollowed out elk antler beam and leather deal I made, but the antler warped one winter… Not sure what I’ll do now.
Turned out to be a little spendy @ about $35 including shipping from Canada, but I figured what the hell, they only had 200 made, and will probably never be any more. Well built hat too, verry solid construction. Little short top to bottom compared to what I’m used to, but its pretty comfy, probably get used to it. First I’ve had without the top button, really like that idea! (Anyone thats ever driven an old leaf sprung truck on a rough gravel road will fully understand this!!)
Its from a YouTube channel/ project I’ve been following for a few months now, a rebuild/restoration of a vintage 1970s Cessna 172B.
This is kinda a departure for me.. I don’t really wear ball caps much, hard to find ones I find comfortable, (since the narrow brim style came about approx 20 years ago…and won’t bloody leave!) I’ve only ever had one I truly like, and I’ll have been wearing it literally 20 years this summer.
And, nor do I really do brand or channel stuff… But its been a cool project to follow, and I certainly don’t mind supporting that, it was just too cool to pass up.
Got this a couple/three weeks ago, cargo divider bar to keep gas and water cans in place in the truck. PITA to always be strapping them in. Looked at building something, but I didn’t have any viable scrap on hand and buying even electrical conduit or black water pipe and needed fittings cost more than this thing!
$25 @ Lowes. Easier to move it around than what I would have been able to build too. Adjustable from like 50″ to 72″
Did learn much to my amazement, that my bed inside width is wider than 72″. Hell, the outer width if the flatbed is only 72″, and I swore it was wider than a stock box. This box might actually be sprung an inch or so, but still…
But yeah, the feet on the ends have holles in them already, assumedly for what I did; screw them to 2×6 chunks. Little less grip than the rubber grippy feet, but it works fine so far.
There it is with my improvised sideways divider, to separate diesel and water jugs… A scrap stove pipe support bracket I brought home from work, already made up. Didn’t quite clear my 5th wheel hitch(gotta get rid of that soon) but if you flipped it around and sat it at a slight angle it worked for most arrangements.
I got tired of it not fitting all the cans I needed, separately, on the right sides… And it all still had to be strapped somewhere.
Went browsing online for parts ideas(Lowes app is a rube goldberg/macgyver designers dream for finding hardware! )
Between black steel pipe and SteelTek structural pipe, I figured I could make a couple L shaped dividers that would slide on the sucker, outer L sitting on the bed floor (2 because there are the two telescoping tube sizes on it) and lock in place with some set screw/knobs.
Thats sorta what I ended with..
I did buy a chunk of pipe, a couple pipe fittings, and one steeltek fitting… but my total for one divider was over $30…
On the way out of the store, I decided to hell with it and got another of the ratcheting dividers for $25, too.
I’d already found that the feet are just pinned on with a rivet(the pipe bottoms in the cup on the foot first, pressure is dirrect, not held by thd rivet/pin). I’d removed the feet and hair clipped/bolted them back on the first one. Easier to move around and be able to put it in trough the other frame without the 3m2x6 ends on it…
With the second one, I found that with the feet off, the inner pipe will slide out the back of the outer one…
So I got to measuing and cutting.
Liked the idea of an adjustable divider, I can put the main bar further forward and still use it… Would have liked to leave more length, but to get it to shorten enough to trap the cans, it left me with just about 30″ max. Thats with it cut to be a minimum length of 16″, 1″ over the 15″ gas cans…
The bigger bar OD is 1.25″, small inner one is a touch over 7/8″. Unfortunately Steeltek(and plumbing pipe) specs for 1.25″ are off… Its ID of their pipe. So all the fittings are much bigger!! And 3/4″ pipe OD is even bigger than 1.25″ OD, so i couldn’t just drop a size.
Could have used 3/4″ water fittings IF I drilled or machined the threads out, then the dia would work. Too freaking much work.
So yeah, the smaller pipe goes into the steeltek T, with about 3/8″ of play, but locked in with the set screw on the short one… the other two screws on the cross bar are snugged up, but so it can slide.
So, maybe $55 in actual used materials, got me one bar and one divider, that I can move on one side of the main bar. If I need the divider past center to the other side of the truck I can just flip the whole affair endo. If I need divider on both ends after all, I’ll think of something for a slider T then… maybe weld one up.. and cut down another ratchet bar, or use the water pipe I got… will find out at the time.
Ir bows the main bar out a little, with the ball pivots on the feet, and the center joint only being overlapped a couole inches lets it flex. Just have to remember to just snug the divider, not torque it in. The only real downside now is since its tightened against the tail gate, it drops every time you open the gate, and has to be re-ratcheted in place when you close it. Only mildly annoying. I might get another T and put a foot/leg under the end.. maybe.
Going to get a female/female coupler somehow, maybe find some pipe that will slip over the 7/8″ tube(maybe machine out a short chunk of 3/4″ steeltek pipe?) And I can butt joint the piece I cut off, back on at times… and use it as an extension, have a longer divider that way, with some adjustment still… will have to play with it.