Thanks for looking,
See you again in a few months! 🙂
Schrade USA Old Timer knives that is!
Have had both of these a while, the 8OT Stockman a couple years, and have carried it off and on. The 94OT Trapper almost as long, but hadn’t used it.
The Stockman came from a close friend, a knife he used to carry/use. We were cleaning out a tool box in one of his old trucks. The box had gotten full of water… Yup, knife was solid orange rust. He said if I thought I could do something with it I could have it.
90% of it was loose rust and came off in a WD-40 bath, I sharpened if and left it at that, and used it.
The trapper came from another friend, as I recall by way of a passaround box on a forum, was one he snagged at a flea market. It was badically clean, just hard rust in the joints and on the areas where the blades were exposed. I intended to give it a good cleaning, but it always got put on a back burner.
Anyway, time to kill, and lots of elbow grease, and I got them both cleaned up.
1st round is WD-40 and a cloth for any soft/new rust, and loose dirt.
2nd round is light oil on a Scotch Brite pad for blades and back of springs.
3rd round is Flitz polish on the scotch brite pad for blades, springs, and bolsters.
4th round is the Flitz on a soft cloth, for everything, delrin included.
Not perfect, and I wouldn’t want that. There is still some set-in hard rust, and some patina too. Shows they’ve had a life already, and an interesting one too.
Stuck a stray D ring I found in the shop on my Dad’s Schrade 225H. I like the fob I have on my big Amherst hunter for back pocket carry– fob hooked over the top of the pocket helps hold the knife upright, and aids in drawing it out.
But I also like the idea of easily being able to remove fobs from knives for messier tasks. Getting blood out of 550 cord is impossible!
D ring should allow me to fob it, but use a micro caribiner, s-biner, snap hook etc so I can rake it off easier.
Going through some things I had out to setup a keychain a fewcdays ago, and decided to finally fix this lanyard.
Got it in a passaround box a couple years ago as I recall. It’s a cool setup, a classic hangmans noose.
But I never really used it much ’cause its so long in the tail. Best it ever got was a few weeks on my bike keys, to pull them from the bottom of a pocket… but I didn’t like how long it hung when using the key..
Anyway, looking at it and a zipper pull I had with a glow in the dark end on it–also from a passaround box– that I’ve never used, and thought what the hell? (Why not?)
Loop from the zipper pull on top, new lanyard turned fob, and what I cut off on the bottom.
Sucker glows nice!
Honestly didn’t know what I’d do with it, but it had a much better chance of finding use now than before!
Fast forward to yesterday.
Recently when I got this little 1xaaa 5.11 Atac light from another passaround box, I had to find a way to add a fob for pocket retrieval.
With it, the same as another light I’ve had a while, it seemed the only option was to just hook the pocket clip through a split ring on the fob. It’s an easy pull from the pocket, and the pocket keeps it in place when cliped.
The problem is that in use, it slides down the clip, and can come off, and sometimes takes extra care to position it when clipping back to the pocket… A pain in the butt.
After a few variations I settled on this, the same setup but with a micro ring as a keeper through a hole in the clip, so the fobs ring can’t slide down.
Works perfect, and made me wish I could do that with the other light– but it has no holes in its clip.
Wait, I can fix that!
Drilled one hole dead center, and instead of the keeper ring, just put the fob ring throughit. The hole weakened the clip strength, so Ihad to bend it in a little maybe 1/8″, increase the pre load tension, works fine again now.
Great place for that shortened up fob/lanyard from above too.
That light is a single mode, 2xaaa from Bushnell, not super bright, but really handy, one of my favorites. As I recall I got it in a secret Santa here a couple years ago. Should be even handier now!
Yes, again. Once you start its hard to leave anything alone!
Outer corners of the bolsters, end of the frame were a bit too pointy and uncomfortable in my palm when holding the knife.
So I rounded them off. 🙂
Smooth and comfortable now, and looks better too I think.
Little fine sanding still needed, I hit it with a scotchbrite pad to satin the newly ground areas to match the pocket wear. But it still needs some hand work with around 400 grit to blend it better. I’ll get around to it soon, as I have shop time..
I don’t have many square ended knife patterns, but hadn’t thought about it much– Seems I prefer the look, and feel of rounded bolsters for at the least one practical reason.
Yes, I’m on a roll lately. Lots of free time to kill in the shop in between other projects, and little things like this happen.
Took the top hump/bump off the spey on my ’47 stockman. No real useful gain here, just asthetics. Im not likely to ever need the hump there for its intended use (its a spacer, keeps the edge/tip away from important bits while you are speying/gelding livestock.) Now its simply a wide somewhat blunt spear point.
Before and after;
And then I did a mod I’d intended to do when I bought the knife recently.
Some of you will know of my search for the “perfect” pocket knife. A 3.5″ to 3.625″ stockman frame, 2 blades at opposite ends, a clip point, and sheepsfoot. Hard to find.
This is my most recent acquisition on that concept, a Rough Rider half stockman. 3.25″, clip and spey.
Turned out to be a very slim, trim knife, both blades on one spring, and extremely thin bkade stock. Call it a gentlemans version of what I’m after. — A touch too thin and light for my tastes, but not a problem, just not what I’m after.
Anyway, needed to bob the spey into a sheepsfoot.
Before and after;
Or more accurately, awl the spey?
An acquaintance on a couple forums did this mod a while back to a 4 blade Rough Rider stockman, then a Rough Rider sowbelly.
Made me think at the time that I never use the spey on my Case ’47 pattern stockman, I could do it too.
Then I got this fancy ’18 recently, and had the same idea… Wasn’t sure if the thin blade would end up too weak, and flexy. Then I noticed it’s blades and the ’47s are the same stock thickness.. either way it’d be thin.
Thought I could try it on my older ’18, but if I’m going to be carrying one it’ll probably be the newer one for a while…
So I decided to heck with it, what the hell, why not. 😀
What the hell am I talking about?
Making an awl/punch out of the spey blade!
The two knives for side by side comparison.
It was easy, and worked great! Not my smoothest bevel grind ever, but it’s hard for me to free hand a chisel grind– not used to the deeper angle. But it’ll work! (and does, I tried it!)
Turned out to be very stiff too, it’s thin stock but short and narrow, it has no flex like I was worried about. Should be fine.