Polaris “Lock and Ride” mount studs and eye bolt/loops are about $8 to $10 each from Polaris.
I found these from Grip Pro ATV Anchors on ebay, for about $3 each. Package of 6.
I couldn’t buy the eye bolt, T-nut, and washer for $3. Let alone adding in the fancy rubber bushing if I could buy them– And I can’t, I’ve looked at everything i can find available, trying to improvise these things!
Work percectly fine, can’t see them letting go under any nornal use. I can crank them in, and pull with all I got, both arms and not budge them.
Lifetime replacement warranty, and made in the USA too!
With my custom rear tray/box I only had the 4 front most outer holes available. Then with the gun boot mounted to one of those, just 3. I used 3 of the 6 I bought in those holes.
1 of them I customized with a threaded stud to mount the boot. That left 2 for the front rack.
But, Amazingly, as proud as Polaris is of that system, they didn’t add them to the front rack/box lid. Probably to not interfere with the box’s space/capacity. But still, I’d expect them around the edges, or corners.
2 eye bolts from the two left over Grip Pro anchors, spacer nuts, and nylock nuts, put this on the front most corners.
Had two smaller 1/4″ shank eye bolts in my hardware bins. Stacked nuts for spacing, and cut them off. Put on the same as the others, spacer nut on top, nylock on the bottom, on the rear corners.
Also, added one smaller eye bolt I had with heavy wood/lag bolt threads to he top of the gun boot mount, to make up for the one I lost to its mounting.
Actually stuck another one onto the nose of the boot bracket too. Not sure what for, it just looked like a good place for one.
Need to make a small bracket and loop/eye that can mount to the studs that hold that gun boot mount, for the times its not mounted.
Between the cargo trays, and these, im pretty sure I’m not losing anything any time soon!
A good friend got me a Kolpin gun boot and mount for Christmas almost 2 years ago. I’ve had it on the Kawasaki for about a year and a half, works great. Ive also found that the boot makes a pretty good travel gun case– It actually has more miles on it in a truck bed or on a boat deck that it has on an ATV!
But anyway, the boot being movable, but the mount not easily moved left me needing another mount for my Polaris. And those mounts ain’t cheap.
Honestly, I can probably build one from scrap on hand, in metal, in an afternoon or evening or two. Given the time.
Time is at a premium lately. So I went a faster route, and built one in wood. Figured if it worked, great. If not, I’d take the time and build a metal one. 🙂
Didnt cost me a thing either! Got a bunch of 2’x2′ squares of 3/4″ plywood from a buddy, they were doors on old cabinets he tore out of the garage he just bought.
So, I traced the loop on the metal mount, made a cardboard pattern, laid it out on the plywood.
Jig sawed it out, sturdy enough, but decided two layers were better. Traced the first, layered, brad nailed and screwed together. Trimmed the fit, longer holes and offset them for a slight angle to the boot.
3rd layer for a mound bracket added to the offset vertically from the rack, that meant I could mount it flat, eliminating the angle/pivot mount like the original.
4th smaller spacer layer added to hold a hold down bracket. Went through a lot of my hardware, but the hinges off the plywood from when it was a door were perfect!
Mounted with one Lock and Ride style mount with a custom stud, and another stud in the corner rack hole. Setup for quick on and off with just two 1/2″ nuts, leaving the studs in place. Used nylock style locking nuts.
The boot ended mounted in the groove of the fender, a nice locator, it can’t pivot side to side. If it seems like the boot tip will move a lot I’ll add a mount for the hole it has. So far it doesn’t move much at all. Ended up well back and away from my foot, clears the foot well area nicely.
Sanded lightly, gave it a coat of sealer/clear coat. If it doesn’t need any tweaking after a few rides, I’ll give it a couple coats of brown Krylon, should be pretty weather proof for a long time.
It’s not fine detailed wood working like some things I do, but it looks decent, and most importantly, it works!
Took me two years to outfit my Kawasaki the way I wanted it. Got it just about set up perfect for my uses.
Problem is, I got another ATV! A bare, dead stock one at that. So, here we go again.
On the Kawi, I went with adding a front dry box, and a rear rack extension/rack wall.
On this one, a Polaris, the front dry box, while a little small, is provided, built into the fenders/rack.
So I set out to add rack walls. Most ATV racks suck for keeping things in place, even with a bungee cord or two, things tend to slide off the edges/sides.
The last one I built on the Kawi, I just cut some light scrap tubing and welded it up. Simple. But time and labor intensive. Time is not something I have a lot of this fall.
So, I set out to get some trays, or shallow boxes to mount, left open without lids, I get a cargo tray, the same effect.
In my research, looking for boxes I actually found plastic cargo trays made for ATVs. But other than one that Arctic Cat made, out of production now, there are none sold in the USA. Seems its a popular item in Australia.
Thats basically what I was after, but on the cheap.
Know how hard it is to find a plastic storage tote thats 1.5’x3′ or 2’x3′ or bigger, but only about 6″ to 8″ deep?
the best bet is “under bed storage” boxes. Long wide and flat.
Unfortunately nothing I liked was in stock locally.
Also, very few have latching lids. Yes, I wanted to mount them as open trays, but if you pay for lids, they might as well be useful!
Anyway, after 5 stores over two trips to town, I found two I liked. The first is a simple light Sterilite box, snap on lid. The other is a Hefty storage box, with a latching lid.
First step was painting, since they came in that milky clear plastic. The green is double coat primer/paint, rated for among other things plastic, by Rustoleum. The brown for the lids is the same basic thing, but made by Krylon. (Got at separate times, different stores. I prefer Rustoleum paint in general, it goes on easier, more durable, but the Krylon works fine too.)
Why green and brown? I’m sick of green with all black accessories.
The rear box went on as is. The front on the other hand, had to be cut to fit around the headlight pod/handlebars. A simple process with a sharpie for layout and an angle grinder (proverbial hot knife through butter, works great on plasic!). While I was at it I cut the lid. Not probable I’ll ever use it, but I had it so why not.
Mounting was simpler still. A handful, 4 or 6 self tapping screws for each box. Located the boxes wherd I wanted them, drilled through them for hole placement, and screwed them down.
Screws I used for the front tray went into the front storage box, so I used screws made for metal roofing; They have a rubber bottomed washer under the head that seals, so they don’t leak. I also drilled a few holes in low corners so the trays don’t flood and hold water anyway.
Maybe an hours work and about $40 including the paint. Not too bad!
And, they work great too!
So, time for a new one.
This one fits great; much better than the last. Instead of holes to go around speaker, buttons etc, it’s C or U cutouts around them. It’s thicker, but still slightly recessed inside the “lip” around the phone screen. And much to my surprise and delight, it has a much better glare protection; I can almost use it in full sunlight!
All for another $6 shipped!
It was extremely well packed, a hard box, alcohol wipe, drying wipe, a dust collector pad, stickers to use for locating it, and then tucked in with the screen itself, a micro fiber cloth! Screen itself was in a thin plastic sheet bag, inside a padded bag.
If it’s half as durable as it is well packed andaccessorized, it should last at least the next 3years!
I’ll have to dig around and see if I can find another camera, a way to take a pic of it on my phone, and post it. Even as boring as that might be to see, it’s still weird to post about it and not actually be able to show it…